My husband and I visited Greece in September, 2021. For the third post in my Greece series, I’d like to share with you five great things to do in Paros.
1. Relax on the Beaches
Kolymbithres Beach
Kolymbithres Beach was our favorite beach in Paros because of its unique rock formations on the shore and in the water. The water is so calm and clear, and you can walk out several hundred feet and still touch bottom. Kolymbithres also provides beautiful views of Naoussa across the bay.
There are at least two areas where you can rent a lounge chair and umbrella. It is a very popular beach, but we were easily able to find a spot. For those who don’t want to rent a lounge chair, there are interesting nooks where people can lounge on the rocks.
Kolymbithres Beach is west of Naoussa on the north end of Paros. Just up the road is the Environmental and Cultural Park of Paros that has hiking trails and more small beaches to explore. We walked around the Monastery of St. Johns of Deti and took in views of the park, the blue water, and two yachts that could have been owned by James Bond and his nemesis.
2. Lefkes Village
Lefkes is a steep hilltop village with a million-dollar view. As you enter the town from the north, there is a fork in the road, and both routes lead to public parking. The village is built on a hill, and on the main street near the top of the town, there is a beautiful little park that overlooks the spectacular vista of the town below, rolling olive grove hills, and the sea beyond.
You can find restaurants, coffee shops and ice cream in Lefkes if you need sustenance before you pop in and out of local shops. Lefkes is a perfect place to explore narrow cobbled pedestrian ways and see pretty flowers, bright shutters on whitewashed walls and lazy cats.
We walked to the Byzantine Aiga Triada (Holy Trinity) church, where you can enter if it is open, leave a donation, and explore the cemetery behind the church. I was touched by the grave of a young man who died defending Greece against the Nazi occupation in WWII. He was the same age as my great-uncle who also died in WWII. This cemetery tells the story of the local people.
looking down on Lefkes
Lefkes park area with a great view
3. Shopping in Parikia
windmill in Parikia near shopping area
looking down on Lefkes
There is a wonderful shopping area in Parikia between the Frankish (Venetian) Castle and the Church Ekatontapyliani that sits just a couple of blocks from the beach. There are boutiques, jewelry stores, and galleries, some being quite reasonably priced. You can find quality made in Greece clothing and products instead of simply the standard t-shirt and post card souvenir shops.
The main shopping path is Lochagau Kourtinou that adjoins Lochagoi Georgioi Gravari, but I don’t think I ever read a street sign. You can just migrate to the pedestrian street lined with shops that draw your attention, and you will be in the right place.
pretty streets in Parikia
Frankish Castle
4. Panagia Ekatontapiliani and the Paros Archeological Museum
I cheated by putting two things into one category, but the church and the museum are adjacent to one another and each well worth a visit.
Panagia Ekatontapiliani is the “Church of the Hundred Doors” because, according to tradition, there are 99 doors, and the 100th will be discovered when Hagia Sophia (in Turkey) becomes Orthodox Christian again.
However, what I thought was even more interesting about this church is that it is a Byzantine church dating back to the 4th century, and in the 1950’s the white-washed stucco was removed in a restoration to reveal the original red and multi-colored stone. You can explore all throughout the beautiful church and pay a small entry fee for a museum in the former monastery and a visit to the ancient baptistry.
The Archeological Museum of Paros contains artifacts excavated in Paros and in Antiparos. Since the museum is small, it is not overwhelming. It only consists of a courtyard and a few rooms. A docent sitting in the courtyard was happy to make the visit even more interesting.
The courtyard features a beautiful mosaic that was found under the Panagia Ekatontapiliani, from its pre-Christian days. It tells the story of the labors of Hercules, and as the docent explained, the Greeks who re-discovered the mosaic knew exactly what the story was about.
The museum also has a beautiful Nike with her wings and several funerary steles. These are grave stones that depict the deceased in touching relief with sometimes a family member who mourn them.
Labors of Hercules Mosaic
winged Nike
5. Naoussa night life
A night out in Naoussa, dinner at Siparos and then exploring the town was a magical night out with my husband that will always have a rosy sunset glow in my memory. Siparos was our favorite restaurant in Paros, and possibly on the whole trip. It was the perfect place to see the sun set over a quiet bay. As it was getting dark a party arrived by boat at the restaurant’s lantern lit pier. Based on the toasts we observed, it was a rehearsal dinner.
Siparos is a short drive east of Naoussa. It is posh and sophisticated, but relaxed with outdoor seating. Jeff’s shrimp in saffron orzo and my daikon bread salad with tomato basil vinaigrette were both delicious.
After dinner we drove back to walk around Naoussa’s harbor area. It is a beautiful scene on a warm summer night. The people filling the outdoor restaurants and walking through the streets only added to the experience. It was lively but not too busy. Of course, I had to have some gelato as we walked along. For the beautiful jet set crowd, Naoussa is known for its posh clubs, but Naoussa is also perfect for those who prefer to enjoy the romance of the place. I loved the busy white washed alleys, the twinkle of the lights shining out over the water.
Milos is an island with natural beauty and beautiful volcanic beaches. My husband and I went to Greece in September of 2021. Our favorite thing to do on Milos was…
1. Visit the beautiful beaches
Milos has over 70 beaches. Some are multicolored, some have cliffs, some are sandy and wide, and others feature beautiful white chalk formations. There is a wide variety in the beauty found where the land meets the sea on Milos.
Paleochori Beach
On or first day on Milos, we visited beaches on the south side of the island. We spent several hours on Paleochori beach. It is an “organized” beach, meaning it has lounges and umbrellas for rent. Its calm shore is surrounded by multi-colored cliffs. You see orange, brown, green, yellow and white sand in the cliffs and in the small pebbles beneath your feet. I couldn’t get enough of gazing at the colorful cliffs and then looking down into the blue water at green and tan pebble sand. This beach reminded me of a rainbow snow cone.
After lunch we drove to a few more beaches on the south side of the island, just to have a look. Aghia Kiraki is wide and sandy with hills on either side. Firiplaka is wide and also multi-colored. You have to park and hike down to Firiplaka, and it has a crowded but fun atmosphere. Agios Sostis and Provatas are two adjacent beaches that are also very beautiful.
Papafragas
You walk down steps from the parking lot to reach the beach. Perched part way down the path and overlooking the beach is a great little casual restaurant where we had a sandwich and Greek salad for lunch. An authentic Greek salad has cucumber, olives, red bell pepper, and tomatoes, and is drizzled with olive oil and topped with a huge hunk of feta cheese.
Paleochori
The next day, we explored the beaches on the north side of the island. These beaches are not all safe for swimming. Several of them have only small strips of sand next to cliffs and crashing water, but they are definitely worth seeing. We made short stops at Papafragas, which has “fingers” of ocean cut into the cliff. You can see caves there that were supposedly used by pirates. Algomandra, Aghios Konstantinos, and Mitakas have picturesque “fisherman houses” by the water, now used as vacation rental properties.
Sarakiniko
The most spectacular beach is Sarakiniko Beach. We spent about an hour exploring there. This striking and very popular white beach looks like an otherworldly moonscape carved by the sea and wind. The water there is deep blue with crashing white surf. There is paved parking for at least 30 cars, but the beach was not so crowded that it was unenjoyable. I was surprised by how much room there was to explore and walk. Even with the room to explore, the only place we visited where we saw more people taking pictures was the Acropolis in Athens. You can lounge on the rock or sit mesmerized by a hole with crashing blue surf rolling in and out. There is one small narrow and calm beach about 50 feet wide that reaches inland.
Kelley exploring Sarakiniko
Mandrakia near Medusa restaurant
Northeast of Sarakiniko is Mandrakia, where we saw the most beautiful fisherman houses and ate at Medusa. We would highly recommend eating at Medusa. This is a casual place with outdoor seating and a spectacular view. The lamb sausage was some of the best sausage I have ever tasted, and that is saying something coming from a Texan. We also had octopus. At the recommendation of the waiter, we tried it both grilled and marinaded in vinegar. Much to our surprise, we both loved the marinated octopus the best.
On another day we went to Firopotamus Beach. It is not “organized,” and so you have to bring your own towel for lounging. But it is surrounded by a pretty cliff and has a church nearby perched above the water. Like some of the southern beaches, Filopotamus Beach is good for swimming.
2. Wander through the town of Pollonia and eat a good meal
Pollonia was our favorite town on Milos. There is a main street along the beach and a bay with little boats. It is the perfect mix of lively but relaxed, classy but not stuffy, and full of tourists but authentic. Restaurants line both sides of the main street, and when the sun sets, the lights of the restaurants look so beautiful reflecting out on the water with the little fishing boats. The other tourists there were in-the-know Europeans and Australians, and so we felt like we were the only Americans who had discovered this little jewel.
We enjoyed eating at Gialos in Pollonia. I had linguini with cuttlefish cooked in her own ink. My teeth were black, but it was one of the best and most unique things I have ever tasted—buttery and rich, but not fishy.
The ferry to the nearby island of Kimolos is also at Pollonia. While we were eating, the ferry let cars out, single file down the pedestrian street. It only made the town that much more interesting.
There is a public parking lot across from the beach, just a few yards away from the restaurants and mellow night life.
a nice evening in Pollonia
view from our table in Pollonia
3. Visit early Christian catacombs and a Roman theater
The catacombs located near Klima beach, are dated from the 1st to 3rd century A.D. and were used both as a burial ground and a place of worship. We were told that these catacombs are important because they date back almost to the time of the Apostle Paul. According to the tour guide at the site, Paul was shipwrecked on Milos and brough Christianity to the Jewish population on the island. Entry to the catacombs is ticketed, and visitors are accompanied by a guide. The tour only takes a few minutes but is interesting.
Walking up from the location of the catacombs, you can reach the ruins of the Roman theater. The theater is nicely preserved with descriptions of the architecture and how it would have looked at the time it was in use.
On the trail to the theater, you pass near the area where the Venus de Milo was discovered by a farmer. There is nothing to see but a sign because Venus now resides at the Louve in Paris.
4. Walk to the castle at the top of the Plaka for great views
On the south side of the Plaka (town) there is a large, free, public parking lot. You can park and walk uphill to the “Kastro,” a Venetian era castle. Signs guide your way. Nearing the top of the hill, you pass a picturesque church, continue through the Venetian castle ruins, and then arrive at another Greek Orthodox church when you reach the top. The hike provides a spectacular view of the north side of the island.
5. Take a boat tour to Kleftiko bay
The beauty of Kleftiko bay is its white, chalky formations and cliffs rising up from the clear, aquamarine water. Kleftiko bay is on the southwestern tip of the island that is inaccessible by rental car. You can take a boat tour from the southern Agia Kyriaki and Kipoi beaches or from the main port town of Adamas, which is on the north side of the island. If you do plan to drive the dirt roads, rent a 4WD or quad vehicle that is allowed to traverse the west side of the island.
A boat tour takes from 4 hours to a full day, but most give you the opportunity to swim or snorkel, and some provide food and drink on the boat. The cost ranges from about $45 to $150 per person. We didn’t take a tour to Kleftiko bay, but if we had an extra day, we probably would have.
My husband and I went to Greece in September of 2021. This is the first post in a spring series on the amazing places we visited.
1. Take in the views of the caldera at sunset
Santorini is roughly the shape of a crescent moon, and the steep inner part of the crescent is an ancient volcanic crater taken over by the sea. The sublime, pastel sunsets stretch out for miles over the calm water.
Many people flock to Oia as “the” place on the northwestern most tip of the island to view the sunset. This is an option if you don’t mind navigating crowds.
We stayed in Imerovigli and enjoyed a quiet, beautiful sunset view of the caldera from our hotel balcony. Imerovigli is situated south of Oia and north of the largest town, Fira. It is not quite as jet-set posh as Oia, but is still very sophisticated and romantic with many upscale hotels. Near Astra Square in Imerovigli, the public sidewalk offers a great view of the caldera.
Many other views along the caldera, from north to south, are beautiful. The northern-most towns offer the most dramatic view because the elevation is higher from the water on the north end of the island.
sunset from Imerovigli
2. Ancient Thera
Ancient Thera sits at 396 meters (1,299 ft) above the ocean on Mesa Vouno, between the towns Perissa and Kamari on the south cost of Santorini. While you walk through the ruins on top, the beautiful blue sea always in view stretching out for miles below. The pathway around ancient Thera takes you past sanctuaries, temples, a theater, civic buildings at the agora, Roman baths, once grand homes, and an early Christian basilica. Thera was inhabited from the 9th century BC to the 8th century AD.
You can hike up to the ancient city from either town below in less than an hour, but from Kamari there is a paved road with 22 switchbacks if you want to rent a four-wheeler or car. There are four-wheeler and moto rentals in Kamari, but make sure you bring your international driver’s license. We paid for a shuttle ride in a 15 passenger van— €10 up and €5 down per person. This was an option we found in Kamari as well. Once you reach the top, the entry fee for Ancient Thera is €6 or €15 for a combo ticket that includes Akrotiri and the Prehistoric Thera Museum. For current prices, hours and closure dates, check the website.
Kelley & Jeff overlooking Perissa
Note to dispel name confusion:
The island of Santorini is officially named Thera, also spelled Thira.
The ruins on top of Mesa Vouno are called Ancient Thera.
The main town on Santorini is Fira.
3. Akrotiri and the Archeological Museum at Fira
Akrotiri was inhabited from about 4,000 BC until around 1600 BC. It was abandoned before being buried in ash after Santorini’s catastrophic volcanic eruption that created the beautiful caldera.
The excavation is covered and preserved inside of a building, with walkways for visitors. Valuable artifacts from Akrotiri have been preserved and are on display at the Archeological Museum at Fira, but replicas are left in situ. The most incredible aspect of visiting Akrotiri is seeing three-story buildings that look 100 years old instead of thousands.
In Fira, the Archeological Museum is a must-see. You can easily see it in an hour, but it really completes the picture of ancient Akrotiri to see the beautiful frescos, furniture, vases and metal objects that these ancient people crafted and used.
inside the Akrotiri archeological site
museum fresco from the archeological site and water vessel reproductions at the excavation
Note:
The present-day town of Akrotiri is near the archeological site. If you take the bus to ancient Akrotiri, your stop is the first stop after Red Beach, before you reach the town of Akrotiri.
4. Walk through Oia
The old center of Oia is as charming as it is classy. There are high end accommodations, restaurants and shopping in Oia. Yet many of the boutiques are still approachable and local; they cater to jet setters, honeymooners, and the average tourist to Santorini.
If you take the bus to the last stop at the main square, you can exit the square to the main walkway through the shopping area. Once you are at the square, it is easy to find—you simply follow the crowd. Walk along this path past the Church of Panagia Akathistos Hymn and the central plaza, all the way to the path that descends to picturesque Amoudi Bay. The walk through town is lined with boutiques and shops all along the way.
We walked all the way down to Amoudi Bay. The cobblestone road through town with shops and buildings on either side turns into a wide path zig zagging down to the water. The stones can be a bit slick, and the steps are long and shallow so that donkeys can carry weary tourists up and down. So, watch your step. Amoudi Bay rewards you with the most mesmerizing blue-green water. There are a couple of restaurants at the bottom, if you are hungry.
You could spend more time in Oia, but we enjoyed this walk through town. If you only have an afternoon or morning to spend at Oia, this is what I recommend.
looking down on Amoudi Bay
5. Explore the southern beaches
Red Beach
The volcanic soil created this uniquely burnt red beach with tall red cliffs and black and red sand.
The bus stops at the Akrotiri archeological site, and also a few yards away closer to the beach. If you take the bus, you can then walk along the rocky beach past several restaurants until you reach the Greek Orthodox church where a footpath continues on to Red Beach. Walking along the beach from the bus stop takes about 15 minutes.
If you drive, you turn right at the fork past the Akrotiri archeological site, and park in the public parking lot before you reach the church. Take the same footpath past the church over to Red Beach. The walk from the public parking lot is about 5 minutes.
West of Red Beach, you can drive and hike to White Beach or drive and park near Black Beach.
Perissa Beach or Kamari Beach
East, at the town of Perissia, you can access the long, black-sand Perissia Beach. It is an “organized” beach with many different beach bars along the way where you can rent a lounge chair and umbrella. North of Perissia, on the other side of Mesa Vouno mountain, you find the same situation at the town of Kamari and Kamari Beach.
Bonus:
There are many other things to do on Santorini: explore hill towns, take a wine tour, visit Santorini Brewing Company, take a boat excursion to Nea Kameni island in the caldera to enjoy the bubbly volcanic mud, or an off the beaten path ferry to the un-touristy island of Thirassia. This is island is on the opposite side of the caldera. You can see both Nea Kameni and Thirassia from the caldera side of Santorini.
Laury and Jerry Tarver love to travel and shared with me the experience of their Spain trip to visit their daughter, who was studying abroad in 2019.
The Alcabaza fortress, which is part of the Alhambra complex in Granada.
Why did they choose Spain? It was still on their bucket list, and it was the perfect opportunity to visit their daughter, Annie, while she was obtaining her Ph.D. in romance language linguistics, having been a Spanish major in college. Their daughter’s specialty was the Castilian language, which is spoken in the Province of Castellon, just south of Barcelona.
Why else would one want to visit Spain? The Tarvers would probably say, visit for the culture, architecture and food! Jerry explained that previously Spain had not been in the typical central Europe travel route. It is geographically isolated, and only physically connected to the rest of Europe by the Pyrenees mountains. Jerry said that before learning more about Spain, he almost expected the country to be poorer than other European countries. But Spain has long since recovered from the wars of the last century. When the Tarvers arrived, they realized that Spain was as polished as any other European country. Laury added that Spain is every bit as romantic as Italy.
Culturally Spain is unique, in part because of the Islamic influence, which is demonstrated beautifully in the architecture. It is fortunate that you can go to Spain and be somewhat transported to the Arabic world, without traveling to the middle east. This adds another element to the rich culture of the land of Flamenco and tapas.
Annie and Laury Tarver
The Tarvers at Park Guell in Barcellona
Barcelona
The Tarvers flew to Barcelona at the beginning of their trip. They visited Las Ramblas, the large boulevard that runs from the center of the city towards the Mediterranean. It is now entirely pedestrian and is a must-visit area of Barcelona, even if crowded with tourists. The Tarvers enjoyed visiting buildings in Barcelona that provide great views of the city. Las Arenas, a once famous bullring and the Barcelo Raval Hotel are buildings that fit the bill for beautiful views. In the evenings, they went to the Magic Fountain of Montjuḯc with light shows every night set to music, before eating at the tapas bars. The Tarvers also enjoyed visiting art museums and watching the street musicians. There are many art museums in Barcelona, including the notable Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC), Museu Picasso, and the Miro Foundation, to name only a few. One of Jerry’s favorite experiences was visiting La Pedrera apartments, also known as Casa Mila, designed by modernist architect, Antonio Gaudi. Casa Vicens is another one of his residential works of architectural art. Park Guell was designed by Gaudi and also provides a great view of the city. The Tarvers also visited the La Sagrada Familia basilica, possibly Gaudi’s most famous design, which is still under construction. They did purchase their tickets ahead of time so they could walk in at their allotted time without missing the opportunity to visit while in Barcelona.
La Sangrada Familia
La Pedrera Apartments, also known as Casa Mila
Madrid
Next, the Tarvers took a train to Madrid, the centrally located capital of Spain. Madrid is very modern, western, a hub for industry, and features a wonderful museum district. While in Madrid, the Tarvers went to several museums and visited city parks and squares. Puerto de Sol is the city’s most famous square, and is the official center of Spain’s network of roads. The culinary delights of Madrid were not lost on the Tarvers. They enjoyed churros and chocolate and indulged in the world famous jamon (ham) sandwiches. The area is known for its acorn-fed, high quality jamon. Orange trees are all over Madrid, and olive groves cover the surrounding countryside. Laury noted that Spain produces more olive oil than Greece. One of the highlights of their visit to Madrid was seeing the Royal Palace of Madrid. It is one of the largest grand palaces of Europe. With over 3,000 rooms, its opulence is reminiscent of Versailles.
Granada
Alhambra, Patio of the Lions
Ronda
They then took a train to Granada, where they saw the Alhambra, the highlight of the trip for Laury. Outside of the Alhambra, there are beautiful mountains in the distance which enhance the beauty of the location. Inside there are multiple palaces built over the centuries. The Alcazaba is the old fortress. The Nasrid Palaces are three palaces built during Islamic rule, in which there are gardens, indoor courtyards and fountains. The design in mosaic is incredibly beautiful and intricate. It was built during the Arab rule of Spain, and according to Muslim belief, design and pattern is used instead of the depiction of people. Also within the grounds is the Palace of Charles V, built in the Renaissance style after Moorish rule had ended. The Tarvers purchased tickets in advance and booked a tour guide.
Plaza de Toros, Ronda
Annie Tarver at the El Tajo Gorge in Ronda
About 75 miles southeast of Seville sits the hill town of Ronda, where the Tarvers traveled by bus. It is perched high up on cliffs over a gorge. The town spans the gorge, and walking trails below the city and a high bridge above connect one part of the city with the other. While there, the Tarvers toured the bullring, the Plaza de Toros de Ronda. It is a beautiful structure with an arched colonnade supporting the roof over the seating area. There is also a museum there, the Museo Taurino, that helps explain the tradition and meaning of bullfighting.
Seville
The Tarvers then went to Seville, where they visited the Real Alcazar de Seville, the royal palace, and the immense Seville Cathedral where Christopher Columbus is buried. In the old town there are many quaint passage ways through town, and there is also a Roman aqueduct, the Canos de Carmona. The Tarvers enjoyed going to a flamenco night while in Seville. However, watching the older adults strolling on the paseo while dressed in their finest, made the most lasting impression of Seville for Laury.
At the conclusion of their trip, Laury and Jerry flew from Seville to Madrid, and then back to the United States.
How did they plan their trip? Jointly they decided which parts of their trip they would travel by train and which parts they would travel by bus. They took a bus to get to some of the little hill towns, but took the train between major cities. They walked and took public transportation within the large cities. So, between using trains and buses to get from town to town, they decided to make their trip work without a rental car. All of their train and bus tickets they booked ahead of time. They did use Rick Steves’s suggestions and also used the national train website.
They only took one small suitcase each and washed a load of laundry during the trip at a washateria. Their daughter was a huge help because she could speak some Spanish. However, they would have done just fine anyway because so many people spoke English, even seemingly more than when they were in Germany.
grave of Christopher Columbus at the Seville Cathedral
water cistern in the Royal Alcazar Palace
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dome in the Ambassador Room of the Royal Alcazar Palace
Does planning a family vacation to Europe seem daunting? Although taking a package tour may be a good travel option, it may not necessarily fit your needs. When you are planning a trip for your whole family, a tour may be too expensive, not catered specifically to your family, or may not include the places you want to visit. There are valid reasons why you might want to plan a family trip to Europe on your own, but then where do you start? To Europe with our Teens and Tweens provides guidance and inspiration for planning your own trip.
castle hill in Hukvaldy, Czechia
hitting the streets of London
First, make a list of the places your family would most like to visit. You may narrow the list or choose destinations based upon how many days you are planning to vacation and how long you want to stay in each location. If you are planning to visit a big city, you may want to spend three or four days there. Make sure you don’t plan to visit so many places that you cannot justly appreciate each location. You should also consider how much time you are willing to be in transit from one location to another while on vacation. When we took a family trip to Europe, we spent time in large cities but also spent a couple of days at a time traveling through smaller towns. We flew into London, traveled to Paris, through Germany, and then journeyed to Czechia, flying home from Prague. If you are traveling to several locations, think about what makes sense when you connect the dots. For example, you probably would not want to split time between Norway and South France, although it might be possible. A more logical approach might be to see Norway and Scotland, and then make South France and Italy a future trip. Still another option is to stay in one region or one country entirely. This way you immerse yourself more extensively in that culture and also spend less time actually traveling.
A second consideration is how you will travel from place to place. This is most pertinent if you are going to travel to several countries or regions. For example, if you plan to only see Scotland and England, you might decide to rent a car. However, if you travel longer distances, you will need to consider other modes of transportation. When we took our trip, we rode from London to Paris on the Eurostar high-speed train, took a train to Germany, rented a car to drive through part of Germany, and then took a bus to Czechia. Taking a bus for the last leg of the journey was due to the absence of train service between the towns where we were traveling. In advance, I coordinated all of our transportation. This allowed more time to enjoy being on our vacation and less stress!
While planning transportation, you will also want to be choosing accommodations. Will hotels, hostels, guest houses, or home rentals best suit your needs? The size of your family, your budget, and available accommodations will dictate your final decisions. In some cities a vast number of choices exist, but you may have to decide whether you want to pay more to stay in a walkable city center or choose to stay outside of the city center in a more budget-friendly accommodation. If you choose to be outside of the city center, you will want to include in your calculation the time and cost of transportation to the city center, whether the option is a taxi, a subway ride, or a rideshare service.
our dancer with Degas' Dancers, Musee d'Orsay
The final, and most rewarding part of travel planning, is the planning of and dreaming about the sites you wish to visit. You will want to consult your family members for input so that they each have the opportunity to visit places they enjoy. I have a daughter who loves art and history, and another that would put a higher priority on shopping. So, I tried to make sure that amidst the art museums and castles, we made time to purchase the perfect couture to take home. You will also want to check opening times and ticket options for sites you choose to visit. For example, some museums are closed on a certain day of the week. In addition, purchasing tickets for a specific day or time can alleviate the need to stand in a ticket line at an attraction. At many sites there will be a line for security screening, but who needs to stand in an additional queue for ticket purchase!
To Europe with our Teens and Tween details the trip planning process but also provides tips for parents and tips for teens. We share hints based on our own experiences. The book also informs the reader about the particular places we visited and stories of our experiences. For example, if you visit Versailles with your family, we highly recommend renting bicycles to explore the grounds. This was one of my family’s favorite activities on the trip. If you are considering making a family trip to Europe after it opens again to U.S. citizens, To Europe with our Teens and Tweens will be a helpful resource.
When brother-sister team, Melissa Noonan and Asher Lewis, joined forces in 2019 to start Hub & Spoke Travel, little did they know their business commencement would coincide with the Covid-19 pandemic.
In spite of those challenges, the early success of their boutique tour company has proven a hidden, underserved demand for exclusive small group European experiences. In fact, their October Italy tours are still moving forward, with several other 2021 destinations soon to be released. I sat down with them, virtually, to discover the “why” and “how” behind their new business.
What is their approach to travel?
Hub & Spoke is built on four principals. The first principal represents their namesake: Hub & Spoke. Instead of the typical “whistle stop” European tour where travelers spend a large portion of their vacation packing and moving, Melissa and Asher prefer to immerse their groups in a particular region and culture. They select a central accommodation (the Hub), and all travel beyond that location consists of day trips with the area (the Spokes). The benefit is a higher quality experience and less wasted travel time.
Small Groups is their second principal. They feel that groups of approximately 12 travelers is the “sweet spot” for dynamic travel — small enough to visit otherwise inaccessible locations (imagine a small hidden gravel road leading to a beautiful Tuscan sunset), but large enough to cater custom, boutique experiences not available to individuals. Some of the venues Hub & Spoke visits would be off limits to large tour-bus sized groups. The smaller group sizes also allow Melissa and Asher to provide personal assistance with booking flights or packing questions.
Asher's wife and daughter biking on the wall at Lucca, Italy
Third, they provide Authentic Connections. The philosophy is that their tour guests can experience more than just sightseeing; instead they experience the sites alongside local experts. They are able to meet locals, many of whom are friends of Melissa and Asher, and make personal connections that last beyond the trip. Tour guests may have the opportunity to and dine with owners of local establishments such as wineries, or hand-picked area guides—often in their own homes. There is time for members of the group to learn from these individuals as they hear group presentations, but also time to visit with them one-on-one in a relaxing and enjoyable setting.
The final principal of Melissa and Asher’s approach is that they offer only Tested Experiences. Before they announce a tour, they have already visited the venues and sites their groups will visit. They have slept in the beds, eaten the food, and driven the roads to ensure that what their guests experience is really full of quality and authenticity.
How did Melissa and Asher develop a passion for European travel?
Melissa has had a lifelong passion for travel planning. As early as the third grade, her parents allowed her plan a family trip to Charleston, S.C., and she has not looked back since. As an adult, she and her husband started taking their boys on trips to Europe almost every year. They’ve traveled extensively throughout Europe, “too many times to count,” but would return to some of their favorite places year after year. That naturally led to several groups of friends requesting her guidance. Over the years, her family began making lifelong European friendships along the way. For example, the owners of their favorite restaurant in Rome remember them each time they visit, and talk about how much their boys have grown since the last time they visited.
Asher and Melissa as kids
Melissa’s passion for travel also inspired Asher, even guiding Asher and his family on their first few trips to Europe. Soon after, Melissa approached Asher about starting this travel business to fulfill a dream she’d had for quite some time. Melissa’s skills as a trained attorney an intrepid traveler paired well with Asher’s skills as a software consultant and an enthusiast for so many things Europe has to offer. The two had already demonstrated a penchant for working together, sharing real estate interests in the hospitality industry, and Melissa felt that combining her expertise with Asher’s would successfully establish the business with a high level of service, professionalism and quality.
Favorite travel memories
Melissa's son growing up visiting Rome
Asher said that one of his favorite travel memories was walking on the walls of Lucca, Italy with his family. Lucca has these wide earthen rampart walls around its old city center, and people can walk all the way around the wall and rest at benches along the way. There are trees along the wall promenade, and if you look out on one side, you see the hills of Tuscany. A gaze in the other direction reveals the quaint buildings of the old town. Asher’s children are 9 and 13, and he remembers enjoying the day, letting the kids just ride bikes around on the wall and stop along the way to play at grassy park areas. At one point his daughter went ahead of them, and when they caught up to her, they found her sitting on a bench with a 98-year-old Italian woman. The two were just sitting together chatting away, as best they could despite the language barrier.
Asher also enjoys experiences very early in the morning before tourist crowds hit. One of his favorite experiences was a tour of the Vatican in Rome just before dawn. Experiencing the Vatican without crowds, and with time to really examine and appreciate what he was seeing, is a memory he’ll never forget — and one he hopes to share with others!
Melissa said that some of her favorite travel memories are being at Mürren, Switzerland. The only way to reach Mürren is by cable car or a narrow-gauge train, since it sits at the top of a cliff. Once you ride up, from the vantage point of Mürren you look out over three mountains, the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Melissa especially loves that time of year when the cattle come down from the mountains with cowbells around their necks and flower wreaths on their heads. People who go there for the first time see something that is so beautiful it almost looks unreal. Melissa says that there is nothing that looks quite like this where we live in North America.
Together, Melissa and Asher have shared many magical experiences. One that stood out occurred while they were doing some research for Hub & Spoke at Colle di Val d’Elsa, Italy. This town has a walled old city that is on top of a cliff and is accessible to pedestrians by an elevator that goes up through the rock of the cliff itself. They decided to take the elevator up to the old town one more time, even though it was getting late, because they wanted one more view of the setting sun from the top. After sunset, they started walking around the old town, shops were closed, and not many people were around. They peeked through a keyhole to a woodworker’s shop, and the woodworker saw them and encouraged them to come on inside. They felt as if they had walked into Geppetto’s workshop. The man spoke even less English than they did Italian, but it was such a neat experience to see what he was doing. Friendliness and hospitality are universal languages!
What is next for Hub & Spoke?
Melissa and Asher already have tour plans for the Alsace Region of France and the Lauterbrunnen- Mürren area of Switzerland. In the future, they plan to expand tours to Ireland as well. You can find Melissa and Asher at www.gohubandspoke.com
Home Away From Home in Yorkshire and the North East
Jack and Irene McAfee have a passion for the history of Britain and their genealogical heritage, both Scottish and English. In 2002, Irene, now a retired preschool teacher, applied to participate in a one-year Fulbright exchange teaching program in England. In addition to their love of history and their genealogical connections, they chose England because language would not be a barrier for them. While they were there, they grew to love the people and love the land. Since their year abroad, they have returned every other year.
Even after raising children and becoming semi-retired, the year abroad changed their lives. For example, the McAfees learned in their exchange preparation training course that in Britain, everything is tiny and would be smaller than they think. Conversely, the British are told everything in America is BIG. The house the McAfees lived in was a very nice 2-story red brick home with 3 bedrooms totaling 950 square feet. They could vacuum the entire house without changing the plug. Many other things were smaller as well, such as the cars, refrigerators, and furniture. They were advised to not make comparisons. As a result, the McAfees realized that everything bigger is not always necessary better. They learned to enjoy the differences.
They discovered cultural misconceptions on both sides of the “pond.” When they were preparing to exchange homes as part of the program, they were surprised to hear the perspective of the woman who would be staying in their home in Houston. She asked how they keep the sand out of their homes in Houston. She thought all of Texas was in the Wild West desert! She was shocked to know that Houston has higher average rainfall than London. Conversely, the McAfees had misconceptions about the British, such as thinking that most Brits smoked. Irene was pleased to learn that the woman moving into their home in Houston was a non-smoker.
The McAfees grew to know and love the people. Marske-by-the-Sea is where they lived for a year, pronounced without the “r,” which lies on the northeast coast of England. North East England is one of twelve regions and has a history rooted in agriculture, mining and industry. But the North East region still maintains a rural feel. Irene taught at a catholic school where the children wore uniforms. She learned that the people there were more soft spoken and approached school much more formally than they did at the school where she had taught in the United States. They approached others in a way that was very polite, friendly, but unassuming compared to Americans. In short, the people there are delightful! The McAfees strived to be good ambassadors for their country.
The McAfees love hiking, visiting small villages, and finding the lesser known attractions that are more frequented by the British rather than by foreigners. They have traveled to the well known areas of the Cotswolds and the Lake District. But some of their favorite trips have been to Yorkshire in the North East. They learned to love England as if they were locals. When they first moved there, the McAfee’s new friends wanted to take them out for drives to other little villages. Irene’s impression was, “this is beautiful, the dry stone walls, the narrow roads, but every town looked like the next.” In her mind, Irene was checking off her list, “I’ve been there and done that.” But the British would say, “This little town has the best cup of tea.” Then later as they talked about another town, “That little town has the best cup of tea.” Irene didn’t understand it at first. Finally, Jack and Irene became like the British, where they would talk about the different cups of tea they had in different places. They learned to appreciate the nuances of each hamlet. They fell in love with the beautiful landscape. By the end of the year, they had returned to those little surrounding towns at least twenty more times. The repetition of going to places again and again changed their impression of the whole place.
Topophilia— “a strong sense of place, which often becomes mixed with the sense of cultural identity among certain people and a love of certain aspects of such a place.”
Wikipedia: The Free Encyclopedia. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc. 18 June 2019. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topophilia
Return Trips
Jack and Irene at the Gaping Gill ready to descend.
When the McAfees return to England, they usually go to London first. Irene says, “If you tire of London you tire of life,” quoting Samuel Johnson. The McAfees love London and have spent so much time learning about that great city. During the year that they lived in England, they returned to London thirteen times. Kensington is their favorite area of London in which to stay. There are enough reasonable places to stay in the city center that it is not necessary to stay further out. A travel strategy the McAfees utilize, is to find economical accommodations. Spending a lot of money on a hotel room is not their “cup of tea,” according to Irene. They use their accommodation as simply a place to lay their heads between days of sightseeing. If they spend their money frugally, they can spend more days on vacation. One of the more interesting places they stayed in London was at the London School of Economics. Many universities rent out rooms when university is not in session.
Typically, after the McAfees visit London, they travel around England and Scotland and end the trip visiting old friends in Marske-by-the-Sea. They believe that those who only travel to London miss out on so much! Likewise, British people think that if they have seen New York City, Orlando or Los Angles, they understand the United States. They assume that every place in the United States is like one of those three places most often visited by Europeans. However, there is so much diversity throughout our country that many Europeans are only seeing a small part of our culture. Similarly, London is a must see of course, but the McAfees firmly believe a traveler should venture out.
Gaping Gill
Venturing out can include going underground. Jack and Irene subscribe to a magazine called the Yorkshire Dalesman, and through that publication, they discovered that the Bradford Pothole Club and the Craven Pothole Club open the Gaping Gill cavern to non-caving members of the public twice a year. To reach the Gaping Gill, they made a two hour hike, arriving near closing time. When Irene and Jack got to the ticket booth the clerk indicated that they were ready to close for the day. Hearing that the McAfees had come all the way from Texas, they graciously allowed them to be the last ones to go down the hole. The reward was to be lowered into a cavern that is taller than St. Paul’s Cathedral and twice the height of Niagara Falls. Each ticket holder approaches a scaffold where they wear raingear and are strapped to a chair and wenched to the floor of the cave. As the participant is lowered into the cave, a waterfall pounds on their heads. It was definitely a memorable experience.
Hiking is also a wonderful way to breathe-in rural England. In the national parks there are public paths across private land. Maps are available at tourist information. Hiking along the way you find quaint towns and pubs that are hundreds of years old. One may even stumble upon an “honesty box” where you pay for farm fresh eggs or produce. These are unattended roadside stands based on the honor system. Sometimes car park fees are paid using the “honesty box” system.
The above mentioned Gaping Gill cave is in the Yorkshire Dales National Park near the Ingleton Waterfall Trail. This trail has set opening hours and a minimal admission fee, but it is one of the McAfee’s favorite hikes. It is a 4.3 mile circular hike that is not strenuous. The walk takes you to seven different waterfalls. Thornton Force is the most famous of the seven, plunging fourteen meters, but others, such as the triple stream Beezley Falls, are just as beautiful. After the hike, one can explore the little town of Ingleton.
In the northeast, the McAfees lived near the North York Moors National Park. Jack actually volunteered at the park while they lived in England. At first, the McAfees were not sure that they could appreciate the moors, which is defined as a vast “wasteland” of hills. Just the opposite is true! The moors are covered in heather in August. Heather is a compact bush that has a beautiful purple color, but it is thick and prickly to walk through. Hiking through the heather is called “heather hopping.” They decided that they loved the moors in August and in every other season. According to Jack, March to April is lambing season. Near Farndale in the park, there are acres of wild daffodils. As you are hiking along through the daffodils, lambs are being born or “dropped.” “Take a picnic lunch to the fields of daffodils with these sheep and baby lambs all around you,” suggests Jack. It is a magical experience!
Jack also says that the Goathland Train Station in the North York Moors was featured as the Hogsmeade Station in the closing scene of the first Harry Potter movie. It is part of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. The railway runs daily service from Whitby to Pickering, and passengers can stop along the way. There are also several annual events hosted by the railway, including the Railway in Wartime and the Steam Gala.
Jack also says that the Goathland Train Station in the North York Moors was featured as the Hogsmeade Station in the closing scene of the first Harry Potter movie. It is part of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. The railway runs daily service from Whitby to Pickering, and passengers can stop along the way. There are also several annual events hosted by the railway, including the Railway in Wartime and the Steam Gala.
To find accommodations in the small villages of England, the McAfees sometimes use AirB&B or VRBO when they plan to stay for more than one night. However, they will often tentatively plan to stop in several towns and never make it to the last town because they have found something of interest along the way. Therefore, they like to be very flexible in their travels. The tourist information (TI) office cannot recommend a particular accommodation, but they do have an informational listing of lodging. Quite often the McAfees will use this resource to find a hotel, guesthouse, or bed and breakfast. When making reservations in advance, they usually make sure that the reservation can be cancelled up to 24 hours in advance.
The McAfees also love “weird and strange” when it comes to lodging. For example, in the Cotswolds, they stayed in a room called “The Broom Cupboard” at The Bell at Stow. When they asked the clerk why the room was so named, the clerk said that it was very small because it had been used as a broom closet, but it also has a private bath. The McAfees said, “book us,” they wanted the broom closet. It was on the third floor over a pub. They said that you could brush your teeth at the sink while you were sitting on your bed–it was wonderful.
Another time they stayed at Durham Castle, which is part of Durham University which rents rooms when the university is not in session. There was a wedding going on at the time of their visit. When the McAfees asked if there were rooms available, the clerk at the desk said, “I’m sorry, we only have one room left, and we don’t rent that one to Americans.” So, they politely asked why that was the practice. The desk clerk said that Americans hate it because you have to climb 156 steps in the castle keep. Of course, the McAfees said, “We’ll take it!” It was a dorm room with ten beds and a bathroom down the hall. This was one of their favorite places they’ve ever stayed. They wandered the castle at night. The next morning the wedding party was in the great hall for breakfast. They sat next to an older and very proper couple. They visited with them for an hour and a half having the most wonderful conversation. The gentleman had Parkinson’s and was unsteady with his fork. Finally, the man said to his wife, “Pardon me darling, would you mind licking this stuff off my lap?” They exploded with laughter. This couple actually invited the McAfees to visit them in Malta, and now in retrospect think that they should have taken the couple up on their offer. Jack mentions that they didn’t go, and Irene says “we should have!”
Irene at Beezley Falls
Ingleton Waterfall Trail
Jack’s foot relaxing in the Broom Cupboard room.
These are the experiences they love. Even when they are on the main touristy street of a town, they will politely ask a shop keeper where the locals go for a cup of coffee. One time when they did that, they met a British man whose passion is the American Civil War. Each year they have a reenactment in this little town, and he invited the McAfees to participate. They did not have time to stay and participate in the reenactment, but just to have the conversation with this man was a wonderful experience.
When asked to describe the perfect day in England, Irene said that it would be hiking the North York Moors. They would carry everything needed, boots, raingear, layers, maps and a picnic lunch. Hiking would include some hills, and some seaside or water. During the walk they would expect to experience hot weather, cold weather, and rain. The weather changes so much on the moors, but it never stops you. They would enjoy seeing how those conditions change the land, and in the end, they would feel accomplished and satisfied no matter the conditions. Irene says that she wants the wind and the weather–she wants it all. They would not be on a schedule, but instead would simply enjoy sharing the day together, stopping when the other needs to stop. There is a spiritual element to such a day.
The McAfee’s sense of adventure bloomed in England, and it has carried them across to many other travels around the globe. In 1997 the McAfees started most of their overseas journeys. They have now made up for lost time. Irene says, “travel improves their understanding of different cultures and has added a much cherished part of our lives.”
My friend Brooke had the opportunity to plan a spontaneous trip during the time her teenage son would be at camp in Colorado. She decided to go somewhere during the summer further north in Europe than she had been before. Brooke is an avid hiker, and there was availability on a trip to Norway with G Adventures, a company she has previously used several times for active adventure trips. As a solo traveler, instead of charging a supplement for being solo, this company actually paired her with a roommate. Brooke has always had good luck with roommates through this company and has made several close friends through her travels. Her roommate on this trip was Katrin from Switzerland.
Brooke arrived in Bergen and then traveled by ferry through the Hardangerfjord to Odda. This is a picturesque Nordic village at the end of a fjord surrounded by mountains and waterfalls. Trolltunga Hotel in Odda was their home base for daily hikes. It is a basic hotel for hikers, but with a modern yet cozy vibe. The hotel is situated on the gorgeous Opo River with waterfalls all around. The first day they explored the little village and took a four or five mile hike from the hotel. This hike was along the Heritage Trail Mannsåker-Hjøllo up the hill through farm gates and meadows. Although it wasn’t a strenuous trail, it leads to beautiful views of the valley below.
The next day they had a thirty minute drive to a trailhead for the Folgefonna glacier. Hiking this beautiful wooded trail involved the use of ropes, bridges, ladders and “T” markers along the way. When hiking in Norway, the trail is marked by a painted red “T”. This gives a hiker comfort that they have not strayed from the trail. Along the way, they stopped by a cave that had beautiful green liken, while the guide told stories of trolls.
The second day hike was along the river to the glacier. The paths are not apparent, but that is where the “T”s are helpful. This hike was an achievement for Brooke. During the hike, they had to pull themselves up parts of the trail using ropes, and then repel down. Once they arrived at glacier, they were able to fill their water bottles with pure water since the water of the melting glacier has no impurities.
The next day Brooke’s group went to hike on top of the glacier. This hike was fairly intense. It had a physical rating of four, with the most intense being five. Brooke said, “You had to be in shape!” She wore crampons, carried an ice ax, and had to repel down a waterfall. The payoff, however, was incredible views–there were waterfalls all around! In Norway, they did use a rope system for safety to prevent a hiker from falling into a crevice. According to Brooke, this is not the normal practice some countries, but apparently it was the practice in Norway.
The following day was a free day. Brooke went with a few members of the group kayaking in the fiord. The view was beautiful, but it didn’t change all that much. When kayaking in a fiord, even if for several hours, you don’t go far enough to really change your vantage point as you would on a narrow river. According to Brooke, it was exhausting. She also had to wear a wet suit, which kind of added to the exhaustion.
Their group was able to participate in something very unique–they were chosen to be in a commercial for a cidery. The area is becoming known for several cider production farms. They got to go on the jet boat ride for free out to Aga Cidery, with free tastings included, and a dinner in an historic building. This is a family run cidery with a rich cultural heritage of Nordic cider making. Even if you don’t star in a commercial, Brooke highly recommends this experience!
The last day the group hiked to Trolltunga. Brooke had never heard of Trolltunga, but most of the people had chosen this tour solely for the trip to Trolltunga. It was truly the grand finale. You may recognize this place from Instagram photos where people are standing on a rock that protrudes out over a fiord like a troll’s tongue. It is 2296 feet above lake Ringedalsvatnet. The hike to Trolltunga was another full day hike from beginning to end, where they packed in their food for the day. Once they arrived, the guide repelled just a few feet down the adjacent cliff, in order to get the best photo of each member of the group taking their turn to walk out. Many people are there, and Brooke said that everyone took a turn and stayed out on the rock for no more than ten or fifteen seconds. The rock is only about ten feet wide, and so being very careful is an obvious suggestion. (I’ve seen some photos of people at Trolltunga that give me vertigo just looking at them.) Second to the consideration of safety, it is important to consider your pose for a photo before you go out onto the rock. According to Brooke, once your moment arrives, it is so brief and rushed. In addition, you are so high that any kind of balancing pose or jump can get your heart to race. Brooke practices yoga, and so she naturally struck a dancer’s pose. But when she began to walk back, she felt a sense of panic. Be prepared, it is an intense experience!
Brooke enjoyed getting to know others in her group. In the evenings, they would have dinner together since the members of the group were all traveling solo, but for two sisters. The group consisted of Canadians, Australian, German, and Irish. For these travelers, it was actually a short trip. Europeans and Canadians have a month or more off each year. After traveling as much as she has, Brooke understands the importance of the different perspective travel gives you. Most Americans don’t have the opportunity to travel enough to gain that perspective. Most of the group was fairly young as well. Brooke was the oldest, being in her 40’s, and the next-to -oldest was 37. However, Brooke had no difficulty keeping up. The most important factor is being in shape, not age.
I don’t know if I will ever go to Odda or Trolltunga, but now I’ve learned about a new place. I’ve studied it a bit and have actually enjoyed it without even having been there yet. That is what these blog posts are about. If you are planning a trip to Norway, I hope this post assists you in your planning. Thank you Brooke for sharing this experience with me and with all of you!
Brooke at TrolltungaOddaBrooke ice trekking“T” marking on rock
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