Does planning a family vacation to Europe seem daunting? Although taking a package tour may be a good travel option, it may not necessarily fit your needs. When you are planning a trip for your whole family, a tour may be too expensive, not catered specifically to your family, or may not include the places you want to visit. There are valid reasons why you might want to plan a family trip to Europe on your own, but then where do you start? To Europe with our Teens and Tweens provides guidance and inspiration for planning your own trip.
castle hill in Hukvaldy, Czechia
hitting the streets of London
First, make a list of the places your family would most like to visit. You may narrow the list or choose destinations based upon how many days you are planning to vacation and how long you want to stay in each location. If you are planning to visit a big city, you may want to spend three or four days there. Make sure you don’t plan to visit so many places that you cannot justly appreciate each location. You should also consider how much time you are willing to be in transit from one location to another while on vacation. When we took a family trip to Europe, we spent time in large cities but also spent a couple of days at a time traveling through smaller towns. We flew into London, traveled to Paris, through Germany, and then journeyed to Czechia, flying home from Prague. If you are traveling to several locations, think about what makes sense when you connect the dots. For example, you probably would not want to split time between Norway and South France, although it might be possible. A more logical approach might be to see Norway and Scotland, and then make South France and Italy a future trip. Still another option is to stay in one region or one country entirely. This way you immerse yourself more extensively in that culture and also spend less time actually traveling.
A second consideration is how you will travel from place to place. This is most pertinent if you are going to travel to several countries or regions. For example, if you plan to only see Scotland and England, you might decide to rent a car. However, if you travel longer distances, you will need to consider other modes of transportation. When we took our trip, we rode from London to Paris on the Eurostar high-speed train, took a train to Germany, rented a car to drive through part of Germany, and then took a bus to Czechia. Taking a bus for the last leg of the journey was due to the absence of train service between the towns where we were traveling. In advance, I coordinated all of our transportation. This allowed more time to enjoy being on our vacation and less stress!
While planning transportation, you will also want to be choosing accommodations. Will hotels, hostels, guest houses, or home rentals best suit your needs? The size of your family, your budget, and available accommodations will dictate your final decisions. In some cities a vast number of choices exist, but you may have to decide whether you want to pay more to stay in a walkable city center or choose to stay outside of the city center in a more budget-friendly accommodation. If you choose to be outside of the city center, you will want to include in your calculation the time and cost of transportation to the city center, whether the option is a taxi, a subway ride, or a rideshare service.
our dancer with Degas' Dancers, Musee d'Orsay
The final, and most rewarding part of travel planning, is the planning of and dreaming about the sites you wish to visit. You will want to consult your family members for input so that they each have the opportunity to visit places they enjoy. I have a daughter who loves art and history, and another that would put a higher priority on shopping. So, I tried to make sure that amidst the art museums and castles, we made time to purchase the perfect couture to take home. You will also want to check opening times and ticket options for sites you choose to visit. For example, some museums are closed on a certain day of the week. In addition, purchasing tickets for a specific day or time can alleviate the need to stand in a ticket line at an attraction. At many sites there will be a line for security screening, but who needs to stand in an additional queue for ticket purchase!
To Europe with our Teens and Tween details the trip planning process but also provides tips for parents and tips for teens. We share hints based on our own experiences. The book also informs the reader about the particular places we visited and stories of our experiences. For example, if you visit Versailles with your family, we highly recommend renting bicycles to explore the grounds. This was one of my family’s favorite activities on the trip. If you are considering making a family trip to Europe after it opens again to U.S. citizens, To Europe with our Teens and Tweens will be a helpful resource.
When brother-sister team, Melissa Noonan and Asher Lewis, joined forces in 2019 to start Hub & Spoke Travel, little did they know their business commencement would coincide with the Covid-19 pandemic.
In spite of those challenges, the early success of their boutique tour company has proven a hidden, underserved demand for exclusive small group European experiences. In fact, their October Italy tours are still moving forward, with several other 2021 destinations soon to be released. I sat down with them, virtually, to discover the “why” and “how” behind their new business.
What is their approach to travel?
Hub & Spoke is built on four principals. The first principal represents their namesake: Hub & Spoke. Instead of the typical “whistle stop” European tour where travelers spend a large portion of their vacation packing and moving, Melissa and Asher prefer to immerse their groups in a particular region and culture. They select a central accommodation (the Hub), and all travel beyond that location consists of day trips with the area (the Spokes). The benefit is a higher quality experience and less wasted travel time.
Small Groups is their second principal. They feel that groups of approximately 12 travelers is the “sweet spot” for dynamic travel — small enough to visit otherwise inaccessible locations (imagine a small hidden gravel road leading to a beautiful Tuscan sunset), but large enough to cater custom, boutique experiences not available to individuals. Some of the venues Hub & Spoke visits would be off limits to large tour-bus sized groups. The smaller group sizes also allow Melissa and Asher to provide personal assistance with booking flights or packing questions.
Asher's wife and daughter biking on the wall at Lucca, Italy
Third, they provide Authentic Connections. The philosophy is that their tour guests can experience more than just sightseeing; instead they experience the sites alongside local experts. They are able to meet locals, many of whom are friends of Melissa and Asher, and make personal connections that last beyond the trip. Tour guests may have the opportunity to and dine with owners of local establishments such as wineries, or hand-picked area guides—often in their own homes. There is time for members of the group to learn from these individuals as they hear group presentations, but also time to visit with them one-on-one in a relaxing and enjoyable setting.
The final principal of Melissa and Asher’s approach is that they offer only Tested Experiences. Before they announce a tour, they have already visited the venues and sites their groups will visit. They have slept in the beds, eaten the food, and driven the roads to ensure that what their guests experience is really full of quality and authenticity.
How did Melissa and Asher develop a passion for European travel?
Melissa has had a lifelong passion for travel planning. As early as the third grade, her parents allowed her plan a family trip to Charleston, S.C., and she has not looked back since. As an adult, she and her husband started taking their boys on trips to Europe almost every year. They’ve traveled extensively throughout Europe, “too many times to count,” but would return to some of their favorite places year after year. That naturally led to several groups of friends requesting her guidance. Over the years, her family began making lifelong European friendships along the way. For example, the owners of their favorite restaurant in Rome remember them each time they visit, and talk about how much their boys have grown since the last time they visited.
Asher and Melissa as kids
Melissa’s passion for travel also inspired Asher, even guiding Asher and his family on their first few trips to Europe. Soon after, Melissa approached Asher about starting this travel business to fulfill a dream she’d had for quite some time. Melissa’s skills as a trained attorney an intrepid traveler paired well with Asher’s skills as a software consultant and an enthusiast for so many things Europe has to offer. The two had already demonstrated a penchant for working together, sharing real estate interests in the hospitality industry, and Melissa felt that combining her expertise with Asher’s would successfully establish the business with a high level of service, professionalism and quality.
Favorite travel memories
Melissa's son growing up visiting Rome
Asher said that one of his favorite travel memories was walking on the walls of Lucca, Italy with his family. Lucca has these wide earthen rampart walls around its old city center, and people can walk all the way around the wall and rest at benches along the way. There are trees along the wall promenade, and if you look out on one side, you see the hills of Tuscany. A gaze in the other direction reveals the quaint buildings of the old town. Asher’s children are 9 and 13, and he remembers enjoying the day, letting the kids just ride bikes around on the wall and stop along the way to play at grassy park areas. At one point his daughter went ahead of them, and when they caught up to her, they found her sitting on a bench with a 98-year-old Italian woman. The two were just sitting together chatting away, as best they could despite the language barrier.
Asher also enjoys experiences very early in the morning before tourist crowds hit. One of his favorite experiences was a tour of the Vatican in Rome just before dawn. Experiencing the Vatican without crowds, and with time to really examine and appreciate what he was seeing, is a memory he’ll never forget — and one he hopes to share with others!
Melissa said that some of her favorite travel memories are being at Mürren, Switzerland. The only way to reach Mürren is by cable car or a narrow-gauge train, since it sits at the top of a cliff. Once you ride up, from the vantage point of Mürren you look out over three mountains, the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Melissa especially loves that time of year when the cattle come down from the mountains with cowbells around their necks and flower wreaths on their heads. People who go there for the first time see something that is so beautiful it almost looks unreal. Melissa says that there is nothing that looks quite like this where we live in North America.
Together, Melissa and Asher have shared many magical experiences. One that stood out occurred while they were doing some research for Hub & Spoke at Colle di Val d’Elsa, Italy. This town has a walled old city that is on top of a cliff and is accessible to pedestrians by an elevator that goes up through the rock of the cliff itself. They decided to take the elevator up to the old town one more time, even though it was getting late, because they wanted one more view of the setting sun from the top. After sunset, they started walking around the old town, shops were closed, and not many people were around. They peeked through a keyhole to a woodworker’s shop, and the woodworker saw them and encouraged them to come on inside. They felt as if they had walked into Geppetto’s workshop. The man spoke even less English than they did Italian, but it was such a neat experience to see what he was doing. Friendliness and hospitality are universal languages!
What is next for Hub & Spoke?
Melissa and Asher already have tour plans for the Alsace Region of France and the Lauterbrunnen- Mürren area of Switzerland. In the future, they plan to expand tours to Ireland as well. You can find Melissa and Asher at www.gohubandspoke.com
We took our family with three teens to New York City for five days. Here is some information about some of our favorite places, as we look forward to the future when we will be able to visit again. You can see the status of New York’s re-opening here and check websites for specific attractions.
Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty
Ellis Island and Statue Island are both run by the National Park Service, but the only way to reach the islands is by Statue Cruises, the authorized concessionaire. You may purchase tickets through Statue Cruises or through third party discount attraction packages listed on the Statue Cruises website, such as the New York CityPass, but we chose to purchase tickets directly through Statue Cruises. Tickets can be purchased online or in person, inside Castle Clinton National Monument inside Battery Park, at the south tip of Manhattan. However, the only way to guarantee access to the Statue of Liberty Crown and Pedestal are to purchase tickets in advance online. There are Pedestal, Crown and Hard Hat ticket options. We chose to purchase the standard Reserve Ticket for our family which includes access to the grounds of Liberty Island, the museum on the island, and Ellis Island. Access also includes audio guides on each island. Tours depart from The Battery at the tip of Manhattan in Battery Park behind Castle Clinton.
We explored several neighborhoods in Manhattan. Above, walking the Highline.
A note about Castle Clinton: it was originally an early 1800’s battery erected just of shore. By 1817 it became a place for entertainment, concerts and operas. In the 1850’s dirt landfill created Battery Park, and this newly created land put Castle Clinton on shore. If you choose to purchase tickets in person, the ticket booth is inside the structure. Once you have your ticket, security and embarkation for Statue Cruises is on the back side of Castle Clinton.
The Statue Cruises ferry ride itself is a fun experience, and there are snacks available for purchase on board. The Reserve Ticket includes access to the grounds at both islands and audio guide tours you can pick up when you arrive. There is a version for kids and a version for adults. You can choose to play the audio in any order you want, and locations are numbered according to audio tracts.
Liberty Island
The original torch.
Our first stop was Liberty Island. We walked around Lady Liberty, took pictures, and enjoyed the view. The best surprise was the museum on the grounds. It was opened in May, 2019 in a beautiful modern building designed over a bunker. There is a theater inside that has an inspiring presentation on Liberty Enlightening the World and its design by Auguste Bartholdi. The museum has some great displays, including the original torch.
When you have seen everything you want to see on Liberty Island, you can board the boat to go to Ellis Island. Ferry times are posted online, but if you are not keeping track of time, the boats come fairly often. When you get in line, you may have a short wait as the boat fills on a first come first served basis.
Ellis Island
The first thing you notice about Ellis Island is the beautiful architecture of the main building. You enter through the large Baggage Room, and again audio tours are available if you choose to use them. Directly above Baggage Room is the large Registry Room on the second floor, with the third-floor balcony also looking down on the Registry Room. This is the room you’ve probably seen in photos and was the main processing room for medical and legal examinations. On all three floors smaller rooms hold extensive exhibits. Notably, the second floor has an exhibit describing the immigration process during the peak years of immigration, from 1880-1924. The third floor has an exhibit, the Ellis Island Chronicles, which houses dioramas depicting the construction of the island itself and the buildings through the years. We enjoyed the third-floor exhibit, Treasures From Home, which houses collections of items immigrants brought with them, including traditional clothing, musical instruments, household items and keepsakes.
Central Park
There is so much to see in Central Park, and it is a wonderful way to relax and wander away from the hustle and bustle of avenues famous for shopping and museums. Before you visit, you will want to look at the Central Park Conservancy website. There is an interactive map of the points of interest within the park in addition to information about amenities and activities available in the park. Some highlights you might consider visiting:
Belvedere Castle
Belvedere Castle is a small castle that sits atop Vista Rock and houses a visitor information center and gift shop. This is a beautiful place to go for a pretty view of the park.
The Registry Room
beautiful architecture as viewed from a stairway
Ellis Island exhibit, Treasures From Home
Central Park Zoo
Near the Arsenal building is a 6.5 acre zoo with separate admission fees. Areas in the zoo include a tropic zone, a temperate zone, and a polar zone.
Gardens and Lawns
There are many beautiful gardens and lawns within Central Park. For example, the Conservatory Garden is a six-acre formal garden in the northeast quadrant of the park. The Conservatory Water has small radio control boats to rent during the summer and turns into an ice skating rink in the winter.
The 55-acre Great Lawn at the very center of the park where people are welcome to lounge and play on the grass. There are several softball fields in the Great Lawn.
Bethesda Terrace Arcade
Beautiful Bodies of Water
The Lake is a 20-acre body of water in the park that curves gracefully and has the Loeb Boathouse at the east end. It is located just south of the center of the park. The Boathouse has a restaurant, bar and express café. Visitors can rent rowboats and venture out on the lake.
The Reservoir is a lake just north of the center of the park. It features a 1.58 mile track around it and views of the skyline across the vast water.
Central Park is full of beautiful bridges, fountains, statues and monuments. One of the most famous statues is Alice in Wonderland at her tea party, and there is also Alexander Hamilton. On one of the quieter spots on the north end of the park sits a bench in honor of Andrew Haswell Green, who was instrumental in the unification of New York City. Duke Ellington and his baby grand stand tall near the northeast corner of the park.
The most iconic bridge in Central Park has to be Bow Bridge. It spans a narrow neck of the Lake between Cherry Hill and the Ramble. It is a beautiful, white cast-iron bridge built in 1859 and has an interconnected design of circles all along its bannister.
Bridge Number 28 is on the bridle path just north west of the Reservoir. It has a neo-gothic design, and like Bridge 27, was designed by Calvert Vaux. Vaux and Frederick Olmstead were the architects who designed Central Park. Bridges Number 24, 27 and 28 cross the Bridle Path and are best seen from below as you walk the path.
One of many fountains, and probably the most famous, is the Bethesda Fountain. It sits in front of Bethesda Terrace and has the Angel of the Waters statue at its top. She commemorates the clean drinking water of the reservoirs that put an end to Cholera in the City. Bethesda Terrace looks out over the Lake. Under the steps of the terrace is the Arcade. Walk under the Italianate arches of the Arcade and look up at beautiful 1860s Minton tile ceiling. The Conservancy removed this tile in 1983 and finally completed the cleaning, restoration and installation of the tile in 2007, for a price of $7 million.
Activities
Bikes are available for rental at either the Grant Army Plaza at the southeast corner of the park or at Merchant’s Gate Plaza at the southwest corner of the park.
Ice skating is available late October through early April at Wollman Rink on the south end or Lasker Rink on the north end of the park.
For information about other activities available in Central Park visit the Conservancy page.
Bethesda Terrace Arcade
Stopping by for an hour or two...
One could spend days at Central Park, but it might be best to enjoy an hour or two near whichever part of the park is closest to other sites you plan to see. When we visited, we entered at West 72nd Street and Central Park West and crossed the park to reach the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Our stops along the way included Strawberry Fields, which is a tribute to John Lennon, and Bethesda Terrace. While we were at Bethesda Terrace we took in the beautiful architecture of the Arcade and listened to a street musician who happened to be a classically trained opera singer. She wore sweats and a t-shirt like any other person but had the voice of an angel. Listening to her, I felt like we had been transported to Tuscany!
Broadway
the family at Hadestown
We actually went very late for dessert because we had to stay an extra hour after the show for the stage door and autographs experience! Venues will designate a roped-off area where any number of cast members come out after the show to make an appearance for fans and sign programs. My daughters were over the moon to see Samantha Pauly, who played Katherine Howard in Six. The leads do not always appear, but those who do are awe-inspiring to their fans!
While in New York, don’t forget about Broadway! When Broadway is able to re-open, surely fans will show up once again to support this paramount institution of the arts. While we were there, we went to several shows. We purchased tickets to Hadestown and Six well in advance, but my daughters were lucky enough to get last-minute tickets to Beetlejuice as well. I cannot think of a better way to spend an evening in New York than to go to an early dinner at a nearby restaurant, go to a Broadway show, and then have a late dessert afterwards.
stage door mania--and Samantha Pauly!
The Metropoliltan Museum of Art
This world class museum ranks right up there at the top. It is actually the largest art museum in the United States. There is a vast collection of Egyptian art which includes the reconstructed 10th century B.C. Temple of Dendur. This temple, which originally stood near the Nile River, was a gift from Egypt to the United States when Egypt built the Aswan Dam and Lake Nasser.
In front of the Temple of Dendur
Sea and Cliffs by Augustine Renoir
The entry to the American Wing is through the reconstructed façade of the Branch Bank that sat on Wall Street. The collection features American paintings, sculpture and interior design from different periods. There are many other collections at the Met, including European painting, sculpture and decorative arts; art of Africa, Oceana and the Americas; and Greek and Roman art.
Tickets allow entry to all three Met museum locations for a three consecutive day period. The Met Cloisters exhibits medieval art and is located in Fort Tryon Park in the Washington Heights neighborhood of Manhattan. The architecture of the building replicates the style of medieval cloisters in Europe. The Met Breuer houses modern and contemporary art and is located at Madison Avenue and East 75th Street in the Upper East Side. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit the Breuer or the Cloisters. But our day at the Met was amazing!
Reclining Naiad by Antonio Canova
We thoroughly enjoyed being in the Big Apple. It’s an incredible city that is so connected to our American culture and history. There is so much to do and so many different neighborhoods to explore, each with its own culture and vibe. The major sites only scratch the surface. We can’t wait to return!
We took our family with three teens to New York City for five days. This was before Coronavirus hit New York City with such fury. But now as we dream of when we can return, I’m sharing with you where we stayed, what we did, and what me might do differently on a second trip. There were some thing that we would definitely want to repeat! You can follow the progress of reopening here. As of the date of this blog, New York City is in Phase 1 of 4 reopening phases.
The Messer family at One World Observatory (notice Statue of Liberty in background)
Midtown or Downtown
First we had to decide where to stay. We typically stay at Marriott affiliated properties simply because we take advantage of their rewards program. Of course, many hotel chains have reward programs, and a multitude of great loyalty programs out there! Sometimes when we travel, we utilize AirB&Bs or short-term rentals, but these are not encouraged in New York. For this particular trip, it was a better strategy to find a hotel. Our plan was to sight see primarily in Manhattan, and so we considered both locations in Midtown, Downtown. Midtown is where you will be near the theaters, Rockefeller Center, Central Park, and 5th Avenue shopping. In Downtown you have the 911 Museum, One World Observatory, Wall Street, historic churches, and ferries to Ellis Island or Staten Island. There are a couple of brands that we particularly love when we want to have a fun experience when we travel: Aloft and Moxy. Since prices were slightly better in Downtown, we chose Moxy Downtown. This urban vibe boutique hotel has a huge glassed in video screen in the entrance and a cool neon sign. It looks more like a club than a hotel. The lobby is actually on the third floor. By day, the lobby is a gathering area with board games and skee-ball, and in the evenings it doubles as a local bar. The hotel also has a basketball court right off of the lobby. The rooms are small, but well appointed. There are storage drawers under the beds and pegs with clothes hangers on a wood plank wall instead of closets. Pegs on the wall also hold small round stools that fold out and function just as well as small tables. No matter where in Manhattan you choose to stay, it is good to stay near a subway station that has north and south running trains. We could take the subway to Midtown and didn’t have to change lines very often. Moxy Downtown is near Fulton Station, which was very convenient. The next time we plan a trip to New York, we would consider staying in Midtown, but I’d also pay attention to a hotel’s proximity to public transportation. However, chances are no matter where you stay you will be close to a subway station or bus stop.
Moxy Lobby Bar
Moxy Downtown
Transportation in Manhattan
With our suitcases and bags, we took a taxi from the airport to the hotel, but while we were in Manhattan, we utilized the subway, walked and even took the bus once. Even if you are in NYC for less than seven days, I’d advise getting the unlimited 7-day subway pass. We took about 2 round-trip outings each day, and could also accommodate for extra rides during the first couple of days when we got on the wrong train and had to back-track. The unlimited 7-day passes were more economical than if we had purchased each ride individually. The subway in NYC is more difficult to navigate than the London Tube or the Paris Metro. However, in all fairness, we were getting around fairly well by day three of our trip. The biggest lessons learned were to get on, not only the correct platform, but the correct train. Some tracks run more than one train, and express trains do not make every stop. We also tried to exit at the street access that was closest to our ultimate destination. Some subway stations are large enough that there are multiple above ground entrances and exits. If you exit where you didn’t intend to exit, you must re-orient yourself. The New York City Transit app was a great resource, but I preferred Google Maps. We would map our way, and transit would tell us which train to take, in what direction to travel, and usually where to exit.
Sightseeing in New York City:
The Empire State Building
The Empire State Building was an awesome experience. In 2019, the visitor experience was updated and renovated, from the time you walk through the doors to stand in line, up to the very top floor. I am usually a believer in pre-purchasing tickets, but we arrived early on a Sunday morning and walked right in to purchase tickets without waiting. The hours are 8am to 2am, but the website has information on the best times to visit. The experience is great for kids to walk through because there is information along the way, but it is interactive and does not involve too many display signs to read. My favorite area is were where the history and construction of the building is animated. Movie screens on the walls make you feel like you are on the steel beams high in the sky during construction. You even have the chance to sit next to bronze construction workers for a photo op. Another favorite area is a room covered in screens showing clips of possibly hundreds of movies that feature the famous skyscraper. Once you reach the 82nd floor there is a nice roomy viewing area both inside and just a few feet below, outside.
Kelley from the 103rd floor
The outside viewing area is open air, with the guard safety wire up above the stucco half wall. The inside viewing area of the 82nd floor is high enough above the outdoor observation area that the visitors outside do not restrict your view. We decided to splurge and pay to go all the way to the 103rd floor. This experience was definitely worth it. If I go back, I might not do it again, but it is well worth doing once. The very top is a small room of floor to ceiling glass. You feel as if you are at the very top of a lighthouse. I expected to have vertigo up there, but it is actually very secure feeling. Our time at the very top was really enjoyable.
911 Memorial and Museum
The 911 Memorial and Museum is something one should not miss on a first trip to New York City. We purchased tickets ahead of time for the museum. The benefit of doing this is that you skip the ticket line, but if you choose to do so, you must arrive at your designated entry time. You should plan to stay at the museum for at least 2 hours, but you could easily spend 3 or 4 hours inside. Upon entering the museum building, there is a movie in the auditorium that sets the stage and tells about the reaction to the attacks from the perspective of leaders at the time, including then President George W. Bush. An escalator takes down you down to the museum entrance. Installed alongside the escalator are two remaining steel tridents standing huge and tall like a grim modern art installation in the beautiful glassed atrium. Since I had watched the horrific events of 911 live on the internet and TV all of those years ago, those iconic tridents made an impression on me evoked the familiar sadness I feel when I think back to the events of that morning. They are the first artifacts the visitor sees and instantly recognizes as part of the twin towers.
looming steel tridents
bent steel beam (foregound) Last Column (background)
To reach the main area of the museum, the visitor walks down a huge ramp with displays along the way. The heart of the museum is seven stories underground. Two indoor buildings follow the footprints of each tower. On the wall between the two tower locations is an art installation with 2,983 watercolor drawings of the sky on that day. The quote across the middle of the installation reads, “NO DAY SHALL ERASE YOU FROM THE MEMORY OF TIME.” Under the former location of the South Tower is the memorial exhibition that honors each person killed on 911, in addition to an educational exhibit, that when we were there, featured a temporary exhibit entitled K-9 Courage. The North Tower location features the main historical exhibition. Inside, you are immediately bombarded with the sights and sounds of that somber morning. There is so much information about how the attacks unfolded from the first plane strike to the crashes at the Pentagon and Arlington. There are audio recordings, video recordings and hundreds of artifacts displayed in this area. As you exit the exhibit, you see memorials created by people all across the world to remember those lost on 911. This is really the heart of the museum. Outside of this underground building you see several other huge artifacts such as the Ladder 3 firetruck and the Last Column to be removed from the site during excavation, which served as a makeshift memorial. While we were there, the museum also featured a temporary exhibit, Revealed, The Hunt for Bin Laden. We stayed for over 3 hours and did not have much time inside of the temporary exhibits. The museum is so vast that one would have to return multiple times to take in all of the information.
Outside of the museum and at ground level is the 911 Memorial. The memorial features two square black ominous caverns with water flowing down into them, each where one of the towers once stood. The memorial is somber, but it also depicts that there is beauty and remembrance from the ashes. Almost twenty years later we’ve survived the new normal. Our visit to the 911 Museum and Memorial occurred shortly before the Coronavirus hit New York and the United States with a vengeance. I’m thankful for the reminder that we made it through 911 and we will make it through this.
One World Observatory
After touring the 911 Museum, we had a 6pm reservation for One World Observatory and reservations at One Dine for 7pm. One Dine is the restaurant on the top floor, and we planned to surprise our teens with dinner reservations there. One Dine recommends making reservations for the observatory for at least 30 minutes prior to the dinner reservation, and an hour prior is even better. If you eat at One Dine, you must also have tickets to the observatory.
The One World Observatory experience was well worth it. The elevator to the top shows a 360⸰ video of the New York skyline through time from the Dutch settlement days up to present day. The video that continues at the top is very rewarding, but I don’t want to ruin the surprise for you! This experience is made to be enjoyed. The view from the tallest building in the Northern Hemisphere is spectacular!
We chose to eat at One Dine, not for the food, but for the view and the experience. But with that said, the food was good and the service was delightful. The lobster roll, hot wings, calamari, and the chocolate lava cake with ice cream and ginger crème brulée all met our expectations. Our whole family had a dinner we will always remember—on top of the world! We chose the a’la carte dining reservations, but there is also a pre fixe option. Options are listed on the website and reservations are made through Open Table.
One World Observatory vs Empire State Building Comparison
The Empire State Building is an iconic 1930s art deco building with outdoor views of Central Park to the north and Downtown to the south. The 82nd floor observation area is outdoors with only guard wire between you and the view. The 102nd floor is a small glassed room that makes you feel like you are in a lighthouse at the top of the world. The height is 1,250 feet from the 86th floor and 1,454 total feet in height.
One World Observatory is a beautiful, modern, 21st century megalith. The observatory and One Dine are on the 100, 101 and 103 floors at 1,368 feet and 1,776 feet to the top of the spire. The view from the south tip of Manhattan is of the water towards the Statue of Liberty to the south, the 911 Memorial below, and the Empire State building to the north. Since the view is through glass windows, photos may have glass glare.
Check back soon for Part 2, featuring Ellis Island, the Statue of Liberty, the “Met” and more.
Home Away From Home in Yorkshire and the North East
Jack and Irene McAfee have a passion for the history of Britain and their genealogical heritage, both Scottish and English. In 2002, Irene, now a retired preschool teacher, applied to participate in a one-year Fulbright exchange teaching program in England. In addition to their love of history and their genealogical connections, they chose England because language would not be a barrier for them. While they were there, they grew to love the people and love the land. Since their year abroad, they have returned every other year.
Even after raising children and becoming semi-retired, the year abroad changed their lives. For example, the McAfees learned in their exchange preparation training course that in Britain, everything is tiny and would be smaller than they think. Conversely, the British are told everything in America is BIG. The house the McAfees lived in was a very nice 2-story red brick home with 3 bedrooms totaling 950 square feet. They could vacuum the entire house without changing the plug. Many other things were smaller as well, such as the cars, refrigerators, and furniture. They were advised to not make comparisons. As a result, the McAfees realized that everything bigger is not always necessary better. They learned to enjoy the differences.
They discovered cultural misconceptions on both sides of the “pond.” When they were preparing to exchange homes as part of the program, they were surprised to hear the perspective of the woman who would be staying in their home in Houston. She asked how they keep the sand out of their homes in Houston. She thought all of Texas was in the Wild West desert! She was shocked to know that Houston has higher average rainfall than London. Conversely, the McAfees had misconceptions about the British, such as thinking that most Brits smoked. Irene was pleased to learn that the woman moving into their home in Houston was a non-smoker.
The McAfees grew to know and love the people. Marske-by-the-Sea is where they lived for a year, pronounced without the “r,” which lies on the northeast coast of England. North East England is one of twelve regions and has a history rooted in agriculture, mining and industry. But the North East region still maintains a rural feel. Irene taught at a catholic school where the children wore uniforms. She learned that the people there were more soft spoken and approached school much more formally than they did at the school where she had taught in the United States. They approached others in a way that was very polite, friendly, but unassuming compared to Americans. In short, the people there are delightful! The McAfees strived to be good ambassadors for their country.
The McAfees love hiking, visiting small villages, and finding the lesser known attractions that are more frequented by the British rather than by foreigners. They have traveled to the well known areas of the Cotswolds and the Lake District. But some of their favorite trips have been to Yorkshire in the North East. They learned to love England as if they were locals. When they first moved there, the McAfee’s new friends wanted to take them out for drives to other little villages. Irene’s impression was, “this is beautiful, the dry stone walls, the narrow roads, but every town looked like the next.” In her mind, Irene was checking off her list, “I’ve been there and done that.” But the British would say, “This little town has the best cup of tea.” Then later as they talked about another town, “That little town has the best cup of tea.” Irene didn’t understand it at first. Finally, Jack and Irene became like the British, where they would talk about the different cups of tea they had in different places. They learned to appreciate the nuances of each hamlet. They fell in love with the beautiful landscape. By the end of the year, they had returned to those little surrounding towns at least twenty more times. The repetition of going to places again and again changed their impression of the whole place.
Topophilia— “a strong sense of place, which often becomes mixed with the sense of cultural identity among certain people and a love of certain aspects of such a place.”
Wikipedia: The Free Encyclopedia. Wikimedia Foundation, Inc. 18 June 2019. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topophilia
Return Trips
Jack and Irene at the Gaping Gill ready to descend.
When the McAfees return to England, they usually go to London first. Irene says, “If you tire of London you tire of life,” quoting Samuel Johnson. The McAfees love London and have spent so much time learning about that great city. During the year that they lived in England, they returned to London thirteen times. Kensington is their favorite area of London in which to stay. There are enough reasonable places to stay in the city center that it is not necessary to stay further out. A travel strategy the McAfees utilize, is to find economical accommodations. Spending a lot of money on a hotel room is not their “cup of tea,” according to Irene. They use their accommodation as simply a place to lay their heads between days of sightseeing. If they spend their money frugally, they can spend more days on vacation. One of the more interesting places they stayed in London was at the London School of Economics. Many universities rent out rooms when university is not in session.
Typically, after the McAfees visit London, they travel around England and Scotland and end the trip visiting old friends in Marske-by-the-Sea. They believe that those who only travel to London miss out on so much! Likewise, British people think that if they have seen New York City, Orlando or Los Angles, they understand the United States. They assume that every place in the United States is like one of those three places most often visited by Europeans. However, there is so much diversity throughout our country that many Europeans are only seeing a small part of our culture. Similarly, London is a must see of course, but the McAfees firmly believe a traveler should venture out.
Gaping Gill
Venturing out can include going underground. Jack and Irene subscribe to a magazine called the Yorkshire Dalesman, and through that publication, they discovered that the Bradford Pothole Club and the Craven Pothole Club open the Gaping Gill cavern to non-caving members of the public twice a year. To reach the Gaping Gill, they made a two hour hike, arriving near closing time. When Irene and Jack got to the ticket booth the clerk indicated that they were ready to close for the day. Hearing that the McAfees had come all the way from Texas, they graciously allowed them to be the last ones to go down the hole. The reward was to be lowered into a cavern that is taller than St. Paul’s Cathedral and twice the height of Niagara Falls. Each ticket holder approaches a scaffold where they wear raingear and are strapped to a chair and wenched to the floor of the cave. As the participant is lowered into the cave, a waterfall pounds on their heads. It was definitely a memorable experience.
Hiking is also a wonderful way to breathe-in rural England. In the national parks there are public paths across private land. Maps are available at tourist information. Hiking along the way you find quaint towns and pubs that are hundreds of years old. One may even stumble upon an “honesty box” where you pay for farm fresh eggs or produce. These are unattended roadside stands based on the honor system. Sometimes car park fees are paid using the “honesty box” system.
The above mentioned Gaping Gill cave is in the Yorkshire Dales National Park near the Ingleton Waterfall Trail. This trail has set opening hours and a minimal admission fee, but it is one of the McAfee’s favorite hikes. It is a 4.3 mile circular hike that is not strenuous. The walk takes you to seven different waterfalls. Thornton Force is the most famous of the seven, plunging fourteen meters, but others, such as the triple stream Beezley Falls, are just as beautiful. After the hike, one can explore the little town of Ingleton.
In the northeast, the McAfees lived near the North York Moors National Park. Jack actually volunteered at the park while they lived in England. At first, the McAfees were not sure that they could appreciate the moors, which is defined as a vast “wasteland” of hills. Just the opposite is true! The moors are covered in heather in August. Heather is a compact bush that has a beautiful purple color, but it is thick and prickly to walk through. Hiking through the heather is called “heather hopping.” They decided that they loved the moors in August and in every other season. According to Jack, March to April is lambing season. Near Farndale in the park, there are acres of wild daffodils. As you are hiking along through the daffodils, lambs are being born or “dropped.” “Take a picnic lunch to the fields of daffodils with these sheep and baby lambs all around you,” suggests Jack. It is a magical experience!
Jack also says that the Goathland Train Station in the North York Moors was featured as the Hogsmeade Station in the closing scene of the first Harry Potter movie. It is part of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. The railway runs daily service from Whitby to Pickering, and passengers can stop along the way. There are also several annual events hosted by the railway, including the Railway in Wartime and the Steam Gala.
Jack also says that the Goathland Train Station in the North York Moors was featured as the Hogsmeade Station in the closing scene of the first Harry Potter movie. It is part of the North Yorkshire Moors Railway. The railway runs daily service from Whitby to Pickering, and passengers can stop along the way. There are also several annual events hosted by the railway, including the Railway in Wartime and the Steam Gala.
To find accommodations in the small villages of England, the McAfees sometimes use AirB&B or VRBO when they plan to stay for more than one night. However, they will often tentatively plan to stop in several towns and never make it to the last town because they have found something of interest along the way. Therefore, they like to be very flexible in their travels. The tourist information (TI) office cannot recommend a particular accommodation, but they do have an informational listing of lodging. Quite often the McAfees will use this resource to find a hotel, guesthouse, or bed and breakfast. When making reservations in advance, they usually make sure that the reservation can be cancelled up to 24 hours in advance.
The McAfees also love “weird and strange” when it comes to lodging. For example, in the Cotswolds, they stayed in a room called “The Broom Cupboard” at The Bell at Stow. When they asked the clerk why the room was so named, the clerk said that it was very small because it had been used as a broom closet, but it also has a private bath. The McAfees said, “book us,” they wanted the broom closet. It was on the third floor over a pub. They said that you could brush your teeth at the sink while you were sitting on your bed–it was wonderful.
Another time they stayed at Durham Castle, which is part of Durham University which rents rooms when the university is not in session. There was a wedding going on at the time of their visit. When the McAfees asked if there were rooms available, the clerk at the desk said, “I’m sorry, we only have one room left, and we don’t rent that one to Americans.” So, they politely asked why that was the practice. The desk clerk said that Americans hate it because you have to climb 156 steps in the castle keep. Of course, the McAfees said, “We’ll take it!” It was a dorm room with ten beds and a bathroom down the hall. This was one of their favorite places they’ve ever stayed. They wandered the castle at night. The next morning the wedding party was in the great hall for breakfast. They sat next to an older and very proper couple. They visited with them for an hour and a half having the most wonderful conversation. The gentleman had Parkinson’s and was unsteady with his fork. Finally, the man said to his wife, “Pardon me darling, would you mind licking this stuff off my lap?” They exploded with laughter. This couple actually invited the McAfees to visit them in Malta, and now in retrospect think that they should have taken the couple up on their offer. Jack mentions that they didn’t go, and Irene says “we should have!”
Irene at Beezley Falls
Ingleton Waterfall Trail
Jack’s foot relaxing in the Broom Cupboard room.
These are the experiences they love. Even when they are on the main touristy street of a town, they will politely ask a shop keeper where the locals go for a cup of coffee. One time when they did that, they met a British man whose passion is the American Civil War. Each year they have a reenactment in this little town, and he invited the McAfees to participate. They did not have time to stay and participate in the reenactment, but just to have the conversation with this man was a wonderful experience.
When asked to describe the perfect day in England, Irene said that it would be hiking the North York Moors. They would carry everything needed, boots, raingear, layers, maps and a picnic lunch. Hiking would include some hills, and some seaside or water. During the walk they would expect to experience hot weather, cold weather, and rain. The weather changes so much on the moors, but it never stops you. They would enjoy seeing how those conditions change the land, and in the end, they would feel accomplished and satisfied no matter the conditions. Irene says that she wants the wind and the weather–she wants it all. They would not be on a schedule, but instead would simply enjoy sharing the day together, stopping when the other needs to stop. There is a spiritual element to such a day.
The McAfee’s sense of adventure bloomed in England, and it has carried them across to many other travels around the globe. In 1997 the McAfees started most of their overseas journeys. They have now made up for lost time. Irene says, “travel improves their understanding of different cultures and has added a much cherished part of our lives.”
My friend Brooke had the opportunity to plan a spontaneous trip during the time her teenage son would be at camp in Colorado. She decided to go somewhere during the summer further north in Europe than she had been before. Brooke is an avid hiker, and there was availability on a trip to Norway with G Adventures, a company she has previously used several times for active adventure trips. As a solo traveler, instead of charging a supplement for being solo, this company actually paired her with a roommate. Brooke has always had good luck with roommates through this company and has made several close friends through her travels. Her roommate on this trip was Katrin from Switzerland.
Brooke arrived in Bergen and then traveled by ferry through the Hardangerfjord to Odda. This is a picturesque Nordic village at the end of a fjord surrounded by mountains and waterfalls. Trolltunga Hotel in Odda was their home base for daily hikes. It is a basic hotel for hikers, but with a modern yet cozy vibe. The hotel is situated on the gorgeous Opo River with waterfalls all around. The first day they explored the little village and took a four or five mile hike from the hotel. This hike was along the Heritage Trail Mannsåker-Hjøllo up the hill through farm gates and meadows. Although it wasn’t a strenuous trail, it leads to beautiful views of the valley below.
The next day they had a thirty minute drive to a trailhead for the Folgefonna glacier. Hiking this beautiful wooded trail involved the use of ropes, bridges, ladders and “T” markers along the way. When hiking in Norway, the trail is marked by a painted red “T”. This gives a hiker comfort that they have not strayed from the trail. Along the way, they stopped by a cave that had beautiful green liken, while the guide told stories of trolls.
The second day hike was along the river to the glacier. The paths are not apparent, but that is where the “T”s are helpful. This hike was an achievement for Brooke. During the hike, they had to pull themselves up parts of the trail using ropes, and then repel down. Once they arrived at glacier, they were able to fill their water bottles with pure water since the water of the melting glacier has no impurities.
The next day Brooke’s group went to hike on top of the glacier. This hike was fairly intense. It had a physical rating of four, with the most intense being five. Brooke said, “You had to be in shape!” She wore crampons, carried an ice ax, and had to repel down a waterfall. The payoff, however, was incredible views–there were waterfalls all around! In Norway, they did use a rope system for safety to prevent a hiker from falling into a crevice. According to Brooke, this is not the normal practice some countries, but apparently it was the practice in Norway.
The following day was a free day. Brooke went with a few members of the group kayaking in the fiord. The view was beautiful, but it didn’t change all that much. When kayaking in a fiord, even if for several hours, you don’t go far enough to really change your vantage point as you would on a narrow river. According to Brooke, it was exhausting. She also had to wear a wet suit, which kind of added to the exhaustion.
Their group was able to participate in something very unique–they were chosen to be in a commercial for a cidery. The area is becoming known for several cider production farms. They got to go on the jet boat ride for free out to Aga Cidery, with free tastings included, and a dinner in an historic building. This is a family run cidery with a rich cultural heritage of Nordic cider making. Even if you don’t star in a commercial, Brooke highly recommends this experience!
The last day the group hiked to Trolltunga. Brooke had never heard of Trolltunga, but most of the people had chosen this tour solely for the trip to Trolltunga. It was truly the grand finale. You may recognize this place from Instagram photos where people are standing on a rock that protrudes out over a fiord like a troll’s tongue. It is 2296 feet above lake Ringedalsvatnet. The hike to Trolltunga was another full day hike from beginning to end, where they packed in their food for the day. Once they arrived, the guide repelled just a few feet down the adjacent cliff, in order to get the best photo of each member of the group taking their turn to walk out. Many people are there, and Brooke said that everyone took a turn and stayed out on the rock for no more than ten or fifteen seconds. The rock is only about ten feet wide, and so being very careful is an obvious suggestion. (I’ve seen some photos of people at Trolltunga that give me vertigo just looking at them.) Second to the consideration of safety, it is important to consider your pose for a photo before you go out onto the rock. According to Brooke, once your moment arrives, it is so brief and rushed. In addition, you are so high that any kind of balancing pose or jump can get your heart to race. Brooke practices yoga, and so she naturally struck a dancer’s pose. But when she began to walk back, she felt a sense of panic. Be prepared, it is an intense experience!
Brooke enjoyed getting to know others in her group. In the evenings, they would have dinner together since the members of the group were all traveling solo, but for two sisters. The group consisted of Canadians, Australian, German, and Irish. For these travelers, it was actually a short trip. Europeans and Canadians have a month or more off each year. After traveling as much as she has, Brooke understands the importance of the different perspective travel gives you. Most Americans don’t have the opportunity to travel enough to gain that perspective. Most of the group was fairly young as well. Brooke was the oldest, being in her 40’s, and the next-to -oldest was 37. However, Brooke had no difficulty keeping up. The most important factor is being in shape, not age.
I don’t know if I will ever go to Odda or Trolltunga, but now I’ve learned about a new place. I’ve studied it a bit and have actually enjoyed it without even having been there yet. That is what these blog posts are about. If you are planning a trip to Norway, I hope this post assists you in your planning. Thank you Brooke for sharing this experience with me and with all of you!
Brooke at TrolltungaOddaBrooke ice trekking“T” marking on rock
