Kelley Messer – Travel Planning Passion

Visiting Chaco Canyon National Historic Park

The road to Chaco Canyon, New Mexico is definitely off the beaten path.

Chaco Canyon is one of the most important Native American historic sites in the southwest. Multiple well-preserved great house ruins are accessible to view and walk through. Some are three stories high, and the largest is Pueblo Bonito with 3 great kivas, multiple smaller kivas, and over 350 rooms.

These masonry buildings date back from 1000 to 1150 A.D., approximately contemporary with the construction of Ankor Wat in Cambodia and Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, France. Chaco Canyon is older than the more famous historic site, Mesa Verde.

The Chacoan people, also called Anasazi, built incredible great houses and very straight improved roads leading to Chaco Canyon, which were used for pilgrimage to the canyon for ceremonial gathering. These people are the ancestors of many modern day Native American tribes.

The national park visitor center at Chaco Canyon is first rate, with a museum to explain the culture and history of the people who gathered here.

It isn’t easy to reach Chaco Canyon, but it is worth the effort. We drove into the canyon on from Albuquerque, taking I-40 west, then New Mexico roads 605, 509, and finally 57, which is also marked as Navajo Service Rd. 9. Roads 605 and 509 are small, paved two-lane highways, but once you turn north on 57, you have 18 miles of unpaved washboard road. There are several places where the road appears to be smooth rock that would be slick in the rain.

We left the canyon driving east on 7950 and then 7900 to Hwy 550 to turn north on our way to Colorado. However, the easterly route is also about 3 hours from Albuquerque. I can attest that the roads are equally bad no matter which route you take to the canyon, and so I am glad we took both routes to see different scenery. Taking the road east to 550, you have about 15 miles of washboard road bumps. I suggest looking at Google maps in advance, inspecting the satellite view, and printing a map or take screen shots for when you don’t have service. If we had not researched the route, we would have questioned whether we were lost on the way. Bring plenty of water and know how to change a flat tire, if needed.

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5 Best Things to do in Paros

My husband and I visited Greece in September, 2021. For the third post in my Greece series, I’d like to share with you five great things to do in Paros.

1. Relax on the Beaches

Kolymbithres Beach was our favorite beach in Paros because of its unique rock formations on the shore and in the water. The water is so calm and clear, and you can walk out several hundred feet and still touch bottom. Kolymbithres also provides beautiful views of Naoussa across the bay.

There are at least two areas where you can rent a lounge chair and umbrella. It is a very popular beach, but we were easily able to find a spot. For those who don’t want to rent a lounge chair, there are interesting nooks where people can lounge on the rocks.

Kolymbithres Beach is west of Naoussa on the north end of Paros. Just up the road is the Environmental and Cultural Park of Paros that has hiking trails and more small beaches to explore. We walked around the Monastery of St. Johns of Deti and took in views of the park, the blue water, and two yachts that could have been owned by James Bond and his nemesis.

2. Lefkes Village

Lefkes is a steep hilltop village with a million-dollar view. As you enter the town from the north, there is a fork in the road, and both routes lead to public parking. The village is built on a hill, and on the main street near the top of the town, there is a beautiful little park that overlooks the spectacular vista of the town below, rolling olive grove hills, and the sea beyond.

You can find restaurants, coffee shops and ice cream in Lefkes if you need sustenance before you pop in and out of local shops. Lefkes is a perfect place to explore narrow cobbled pedestrian ways and see pretty flowers, bright shutters on whitewashed walls and lazy cats.

We walked to the Byzantine Aiga Triada (Holy Trinity) church, where you can enter if it is open, leave a donation, and explore the cemetery behind the church. I was touched by the grave of a young man who died defending Greece against the Nazi occupation in WWII. He was the same age as my great-uncle who also died in WWII. This cemetery tells the story of the local people.

3. Shopping in Parikia

There is a wonderful shopping area in Parikia between the Frankish (Venetian) Castle and the Church Ekatontapyliani that sits just a couple of blocks from the beach. There are boutiques, jewelry stores, and galleries, some being quite reasonably priced. You can find quality made in Greece clothing and products instead of simply the standard t-shirt and post card souvenir shops.

The main shopping path is Lochagau Kourtinou that adjoins Lochagoi Georgioi Gravari, but I don’t think I ever read a street sign. You can just migrate to the pedestrian street lined with shops that draw your attention, and you will be in the right place.

4. Panagia Ekatontapiliani and the Paros Archeological Museum

I cheated by putting two things into one category, but the church and the museum are adjacent to one another and each well worth a visit.

Panagia Ekatontapiliani is the “Church of the Hundred Doors” because, according to tradition, there are 99 doors, and the 100^th will be discovered when Hagia Sophia (in Turkey) becomes Orthodox Christian again.

However, what I thought was even more interesting about this church is that it is a Byzantine church dating back to the 4^th century, and in the 1950’s the white-washed stucco was removed in a restoration to reveal the original red and multi-colored stone. You can explore all throughout the beautiful church and pay a small entry fee for a museum in the former monastery and a visit to the ancient baptistry.

The Archeological Museum of Paros contains artifacts excavated in Paros and in Antiparos. Since the museum is small, it is not overwhelming. It only consists of a courtyard and a few rooms. A docent sitting in the courtyard was happy to make the visit even more interesting.

The courtyard features a beautiful mosaic that was found under the Panagia Ekatontapiliani, from its pre-Christian days. It tells the story of the labors of Hercules, and as the docent explained, the Greeks who re-discovered the mosaic knew exactly what the story was about.

The museum also has a beautiful Nike with her wings and several funerary steles. These are grave stones that depict the deceased in touching relief with sometimes a family member who mourn them.

5. Naoussa night life

A night out in Naoussa, dinner at Siparos and then exploring the town was a magical night out with my husband that will always have a rosy sunset glow in my memory. Siparos was our favorite restaurant in Paros, and possibly on the whole trip. It was the perfect place to see the sun set over a quiet bay. As it was getting dark a party arrived by boat at the restaurant’s lantern lit pier. Based on the toasts we observed, it was a rehearsal dinner.

Siparos is a short drive east of Naoussa. It is posh and sophisticated, but relaxed with outdoor seating. Jeff’s shrimp in saffron orzo and my daikon bread salad with tomato basil vinaigrette were both delicious.

After dinner we drove back to walk around Naoussa’s harbor area. It is a beautiful scene on a warm summer night. The people filling the outdoor restaurants and walking through the streets only added to the experience. It was lively but not too busy. Of course, I had to have some gelato as we walked along. For the beautiful jet set crowd, Naoussa is known for its posh clubs, but Naoussa is also perfect for those who prefer to enjoy the romance of the place. I loved the busy white washed alleys, the twinkle of the lights shining out over the water.

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5 Best Things to do in Milos

Milos is an island with natural beauty and beautiful volcanic beaches. My husband and I went to Greece in September of 2021. Our favorite thing to do on Milos was…

1. Visit the beautiful beaches

Milos has over 70 beaches. Some are multicolored, some have cliffs, some are sandy and wide, and others feature beautiful white chalk formations. There is a wide variety in the beauty found where the land meets the sea on Milos.

On or first day on Milos, we visited beaches on the south side of the island. We spent several hours on Paleochori beach. It is an “organized” beach, meaning it has lounges and umbrellas for rent. Its calm shore is surrounded by multi-colored cliffs. You see orange, brown, green, yellow and white sand in the cliffs and in the small pebbles beneath your feet. I couldn’t get enough of gazing at the colorful cliffs and then looking down into the blue water at green and tan pebble sand. This beach reminded me of a rainbow snow cone.

After lunch we drove to a few more beaches on the south side of the island, just to have a look. Aghia Kiraki is wide and sandy with hills on either side. Firiplaka is wide and also multi-colored. You have to park and hike down to Firiplaka, and it has a crowded but fun atmosphere. Agios Sostis and Provatas are two adjacent beaches that are also very beautiful.

You walk down steps from the parking lot to reach the beach. Perched part way down the path and overlooking the beach is a great little casual restaurant where we had a sandwich and Greek salad for lunch. An authentic Greek salad has cucumber, olives, red bell pepper, and tomatoes, and is drizzled with olive oil and topped with a huge hunk of feta cheese.

The next day, we explored the beaches on the north side of the island. These beaches are not all safe for swimming. Several of them have only small strips of sand next to cliffs and crashing water, but they are definitely worth seeing. We made short stops at Papafragas, which has “fingers” of ocean cut into the cliff. You can see caves there that were supposedly used by pirates. Algomandra, Aghios Konstantinos, and Mitakas have picturesque “fisherman houses” by the water, now used as vacation rental properties.

The most spectacular beach is Sarakiniko Beach. We spent about an hour exploring there. This striking and very popular white beach looks like an otherworldly moonscape carved by the sea and wind. The water there is deep blue with crashing white surf. There is paved parking for at least 30 cars, but the beach was not so crowded that it was unenjoyable. I was surprised by how much room there was to explore and walk. Even with the room to explore, the only place we visited where we saw more people taking pictures was the Acropolis in Athens. You can lounge on the rock or sit mesmerized by a hole with crashing blue surf rolling in and out. There is one small narrow and calm beach about 50 feet wide that reaches inland.

Northeast of Sarakiniko is Mandrakia, where we saw the most beautiful fisherman houses and ate at Medusa. We would highly recommend eating at Medusa. This is a casual place with outdoor seating and a spectacular view. The lamb sausage was some of the best sausage I have ever tasted, and that is saying something coming from a Texan. We also had octopus. At the recommendation of the waiter, we tried it both grilled and marinaded in vinegar. Much to our surprise, we both loved the marinated octopus the best.

On another day we went to Firopotamus Beach. It is not “organized,” and so you have to bring your own towel for lounging. But it is surrounded by a pretty cliff and has a church nearby perched above the water. Like some of the southern beaches, Filopotamus Beach is good for swimming.

2. Wander through the town of Pollonia and eat a good meal

Pollonia was our favorite town on Milos. There is a main street along the beach and a bay with little boats. It is the perfect mix of lively but relaxed, classy but not stuffy, and full of tourists but authentic. Restaurants line both sides of the main street, and when the sun sets, the lights of the restaurants look so beautiful reflecting out on the water with the little fishing boats. The other tourists there were in-the-know Europeans and Australians, and so we felt like we were the only Americans who had discovered this little jewel.

We enjoyed eating at Gialos in Pollonia. I had linguini with cuttlefish cooked in her own ink. My teeth were black, but it was one of the best and most unique things I have ever tasted—buttery and rich, but not fishy.

The ferry to the nearby island of Kimolos is also at Pollonia. While we were eating, the ferry let cars out, single file down the pedestrian street. It only made the town that much more interesting.

There is a public parking lot across from the beach, just a few yards away from the restaurants and mellow night life.

3. Visit early Christian catacombs and a Roman theater

The catacombs located near Klima beach, are dated from the 1^st to 3^rd century A.D. and were used both as a burial ground and a place of worship. We were told that these catacombs are important because they date back almost to the time of the Apostle Paul. According to the tour guide at the site, Paul was shipwrecked on Milos and brough Christianity to the Jewish population on the island. Entry to the catacombs is ticketed, and visitors are accompanied by a guide. The tour only takes a few minutes but is interesting.

Walking up from the location of the catacombs, you can reach the ruins of the Roman theater. The theater is nicely preserved with descriptions of the architecture and how it would have looked at the time it was in use.

On the trail to the theater, you pass near the area where the Venus de Milo was discovered by a farmer. There is nothing to see but a sign because Venus now resides at the Louve in Paris.

4. Walk to the castle at the top of the Plaka for great views

On the south side of the Plaka (town) there is a large, free, public parking lot. You can park and walk uphill to the “Kastro,” a Venetian era castle. Signs guide your way. Nearing the top of the hill, you pass a picturesque church, continue through the Venetian castle ruins, and then arrive at another Greek Orthodox church when you reach the top. The hike provides a spectacular view of the north side of the island.

5. Take a boat tour to Kleftiko bay

The beauty of Kleftiko bay is its white, chalky formations and cliffs rising up from the clear, aquamarine water. Kleftiko bay is on the southwestern tip of the island that is inaccessible by rental car. You can take a boat tour from the southern Agia Kyriaki and Kipoi beaches or from the main port town of Adamas, which is on the north side of the island. If you do plan to drive the dirt roads, rent a 4WD or quad vehicle that is allowed to traverse the west side of the island.

A boat tour takes from 4 hours to a full day, but most give you the opportunity to swim or snorkel, and some provide food and drink on the boat. The cost ranges from about $45 to $150 per person. We didn’t take a tour to Kleftiko bay, but if we had an extra day, we probably would have.

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Milos Paleochori Pollonia Sarakiniko

5 Best Things to do in Santorini

My husband and I went to Greece in September of 2021. This is the first post in a spring series on the amazing places we visited.

1. Take in the views of the caldera at sunset

Santorini is roughly the shape of a crescent moon, and the steep inner part of the crescent is an ancient volcanic crater taken over by the sea. The sublime, pastel sunsets stretch out for miles over the calm water.

Many people flock to Oia as “the” place on the northwestern most tip of the island to view the sunset. This is an option if you don’t mind navigating crowds.

We stayed in Imerovigli and enjoyed a quiet, beautiful sunset view of the caldera from our hotel balcony. Imerovigli is situated south of Oia and north of the largest town, Fira. It is not quite as jet-set posh as Oia, but is still very sophisticated and romantic with many upscale hotels. Near Astra Square in Imerovigli, the public sidewalk offers a great view of the caldera.

Many other views along the caldera, from north to south, are beautiful. The northern-most towns offer the most dramatic view because the elevation is higher from the water on the north end of the island.

2. Ancient Thera

Ancient Thera sits at 396 meters (1,299 ft) above the ocean on Mesa Vouno, between the towns Perissa and Kamari on the south cost of Santorini. While you walk through the ruins on top, the beautiful blue sea always in view stretching out for miles below. The pathway around ancient Thera takes you past sanctuaries, temples, a theater, civic buildings at the agora, Roman baths, once grand homes, and an early Christian basilica. Thera was inhabited from the 9^th century BC to the 8^th century AD.

You can hike up to the ancient city from either town below in less than an hour, but from Kamari there is a paved road with 22 switchbacks if you want to rent a four-wheeler or car. There are four-wheeler and moto rentals in Kamari, but make sure you bring your international driver’s license. We paid for a shuttle ride in a 15 passenger van— €10 up and €5 down per person. This was an option we found in Kamari as well. Once you reach the top, the entry fee for Ancient Thera is €6 or €15 for a combo ticket that includes Akrotiri and the Prehistoric Thera Museum. For current prices, hours and closure dates, check the website.

Note to dispel name confusion:

The island of Santorini is officially named Thera, also spelled Thira.

The ruins on top of Mesa Vouno are called Ancient Thera.

The main town on Santorini is Fira.

3. Akrotiri and the Archeological Museum at Fira

Akrotiri was inhabited from about 4,000 BC until around 1600 BC. It was abandoned before being buried in ash after Santorini’s catastrophic volcanic eruption that created the beautiful caldera.

The excavation is covered and preserved inside of a building, with walkways for visitors. Valuable artifacts from Akrotiri have been preserved and are on display at the Archeological Museum at Fira, but replicas are left in situ. The most incredible aspect of visiting Akrotiri is seeing three-story buildings that look 100 years old instead of thousands.

In Fira, the Archeological Museum is a must-see. You can easily see it in an hour, but it really completes the picture of ancient Akrotiri to see the beautiful frescos, furniture, vases and metal objects that these ancient people crafted and used.

Note:

The present-day town of Akrotiri is near the archeological site. If you take the bus to ancient Akrotiri, your stop is the first stop after Red Beach, before you reach the town of Akrotiri.

4. Walk through Oia

The old center of Oia is as charming as it is classy. There are high end accommodations, restaurants and shopping in Oia. Yet many of the boutiques are still approachable and local; they cater to jet setters, honeymooners, and the average tourist to Santorini.

If you take the bus to the last stop at the main square, you can exit the square to the main walkway through the shopping area. Once you are at the square, it is easy to find—you simply follow the crowd. Walk along this path past the Church of Panagia Akathistos Hymn and the central plaza, all the way to the path that descends to picturesque Amoudi Bay. The walk through town is lined with boutiques and shops all along the way.

We walked all the way down to Amoudi Bay. The cobblestone road through town with shops and buildings on either side turns into a wide path zig zagging down to the water. The stones can be a bit slick, and the steps are long and shallow so that donkeys can carry weary tourists up and down. So, watch your step. Amoudi Bay rewards you with the most mesmerizing blue-green water. There are a couple of restaurants at the bottom, if you are hungry.

You could spend more time in Oia, but we enjoyed this walk through town. If you only have an afternoon or morning to spend at Oia, this is what I recommend.

5. Explore the southern beaches

Red Beach

The volcanic soil created this uniquely burnt red beach with tall red cliffs and black and red sand.

The bus stops at the Akrotiri archeological site, and also a few yards away closer to the beach. If you take the bus, you can then walk along the rocky beach past several restaurants until you reach the Greek Orthodox church where a footpath continues on to Red Beach. Walking along the beach from the bus stop takes about 15 minutes.

If you drive, you turn right at the fork past the Akrotiri archeological site, and park in the public parking lot before you reach the church. Take the same footpath past the church over to Red Beach. The walk from the public parking lot is about 5 minutes.

West of Red Beach, you can drive and hike to White Beach or drive and park near Black Beach.

Perissa Beach or Kamari Beach

East, at the town of Perissia, you can access the long, black-sand Perissia Beach. It is an “organized” beach with many different beach bars along the way where you can rent a lounge chair and umbrella. North of Perissia, on the other side of Mesa Vouno mountain, you find the same situation at the town of Kamari and Kamari Beach.

Bonus:

There are many other things to do on Santorini: explore hill towns, take a wine tour, visit Santorini Brewing Company, take a boat excursion to Nea Kameni island in the caldera to enjoy the bubbly volcanic mud, or an off the beaten path ferry to the un-touristy island of Thirassia. This is island is on the opposite side of the caldera. You can see both Nea Kameni and Thirassia from the caldera side of Santorini.

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Two Weeks in Spain with the Tarvers

Laury and Jerry Tarver love to travel and shared with me the experience of their Spain trip to visit their daughter, who was studying abroad in 2019.

Why did they choose Spain? It was still on their bucket list, and it was the perfect opportunity to visit their daughter, Annie, while she was obtaining her Ph.D. in romance language linguistics, having been a Spanish major in college. Their daughter’s specialty was the Castilian language, which is spoken in the Province of Castellon, just south of Barcelona.

Why else would one want to visit Spain? The Tarvers would probably say, visit for the culture, architecture and food! Jerry explained that previously Spain had not been in the typical central Europe travel route. It is geographically isolated, and only physically connected to the rest of Europe by the Pyrenees mountains. Jerry said that before learning more about Spain, he almost expected the country to be poorer than other European countries. But Spain has long since recovered from the wars of the last century. When the Tarvers arrived, they realized that Spain was as polished as any other European country. Laury added that Spain is every bit as romantic as Italy.

Culturally Spain is unique, in part because of the Islamic influence, which is demonstrated beautifully in the architecture. It is fortunate that you can go to Spain and be somewhat transported to the Arabic world, without traveling to the middle east. This adds another element to the rich culture of the land of Flamenco and tapas.

Barcelona

The Tarvers flew to Barcelona at the beginning of their trip. They visited Las Ramblas, the large boulevard that runs from the center of the city towards the Mediterranean. It is now entirely pedestrian and is a must-visit area of Barcelona, even if crowded with tourists. The Tarvers enjoyed visiting buildings in Barcelona that provide great views of the city. Las Arenas, a once famous bullring and the Barcelo Raval Hotel are buildings that fit the bill for beautiful views. In the evenings, they went to the Magic Fountain of Montjuḯc with light shows every night set to music, before eating at the tapas bars. The Tarvers also enjoyed visiting art museums and watching the street musicians. There are many art museums in Barcelona, including the notable Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art, the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC), Museu Picasso, and the Miro Foundation, to name only a few. One of Jerry’s favorite experiences was visiting La Pedrera apartments, also known as Casa Mila, designed by modernist architect, Antonio Gaudi. Casa Vicens is another one of his residential works of architectural art. Park Guell was designed by Gaudi and also provides a great view of the city. The Tarvers also visited the La Sagrada Familia basilica, possibly Gaudi’s most famous design, which is still under construction. They did purchase their tickets ahead of time so they could walk in at their allotted time without missing the opportunity to visit while in Barcelona.

Madrid

Next, the Tarvers took a train to Madrid, the centrally located capital of Spain. Madrid is very modern, western, a hub for industry, and features a wonderful museum district. While in Madrid, the Tarvers went to several museums and visited city parks and squares. Puerto de Sol is the city’s most famous square, and is the official center of Spain’s network of roads. The culinary delights of Madrid were not lost on the Tarvers. They enjoyed churros and chocolate and indulged in the world famous jamon (ham) sandwiches. The area is known for its acorn-fed, high quality jamon. Orange trees are all over Madrid, and olive groves cover the surrounding countryside. Laury noted that Spain produces more olive oil than Greece. One of the highlights of their visit to Madrid was seeing the Royal Palace of Madrid. It is one of the largest grand palaces of Europe. With over 3,000 rooms, its opulence is reminiscent of Versailles.

Granada

Ronda

They then took a train to Granada, where they saw the Alhambra, the highlight of the trip for Laury. Outside of the Alhambra, there are beautiful mountains in the distance which enhance the beauty of the location. Inside there are multiple palaces built over the centuries. The Alcazaba is the old fortress. The Nasrid Palaces are three palaces built during Islamic rule, in which there are gardens, indoor courtyards and fountains. The design in mosaic is incredibly beautiful and intricate. It was built during the Arab rule of Spain, and according to Muslim belief, design and pattern is used instead of the depiction of people. Also within the grounds is the Palace of Charles V, built in the Renaissance style after Moorish rule had ended. The Tarvers purchased tickets in advance and booked a tour guide.

About 75 miles southeast of Seville sits the hill town of Ronda, where the Tarvers traveled by bus. It is perched high up on cliffs over a gorge. The town spans the gorge, and walking trails below the city and a high bridge above connect one part of the city with the other. While there, the Tarvers toured the bullring, the Plaza de Toros de Ronda. It is a beautiful structure with an arched colonnade supporting the roof over the seating area. There is also a museum there, the Museo Taurino, that helps explain the tradition and meaning of bullfighting.

Seville

The Tarvers then went to Seville, where they visited the Real Alcazar de Seville, the royal palace, and the immense Seville Cathedral where Christopher Columbus is buried. In the old town there are many quaint passage ways through town, and there is also a Roman aqueduct, the Canos de Carmona. The Tarvers enjoyed going to a flamenco night while in Seville. However, watching the older adults strolling on the paseo while dressed in their finest, made the most lasting impression of Seville for Laury.

At the conclusion of their trip, Laury and Jerry flew from Seville to Madrid, and then back to the United States.

How did they plan their trip? Jointly they decided which parts of their trip they would travel by train and which parts they would travel by bus. They took a bus to get to some of the little hill towns, but took the train between major cities. They walked and took public transportation within the large cities. So, between using trains and buses to get from town to town, they decided to make their trip work without a rental car. All of their train and bus tickets they booked ahead of time. They did use Rick Steves’s suggestions and also used the national train website.

They only took one small suitcase each and washed a load of laundry during the trip at a washateria. Their daughter was a huge help because she could speak some Spanish. However, they would have done just fine anyway because so many people spoke English, even seemingly more than when they were in Germany.

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Recording Travel Memories

Memories of a trip are like seashells from a sunset beach, saved in a jar.

Each glance at them through the years recalls the soft sand, salt taste, and cool rushing water between toes while with the ones you love.

How to preserve these precious memories? Read on for some creative ideas.

Travel Sketches

My friend, Laury Tarver, memorializes her travel by sketching. She documents where they stay, things they see, phenomenal meals they eat, and meaningful experiences.

For a trip, she maps out a two open pages in her sketch book so that she will have room to draw her memories throughout her vacation, and will ultimately use up the entire area of the two pages by the end of the trip. Laury sketches and labels images from her mind that are most memorable, and personal, to her. The activity of sketching is spontaneous, and she just sketches what comes to mind as she recalls her memories.

She tries to sketch some each day of a trip so that she doesn’t get behind in her sketching. However, it isn’t always possible to sit down and have quiet time specifically reserved for sketching. Instead, Laury usually sketches when she can, such as while traveling a train or bus.

She enjoys the process of sketching, but also enjoys looking back at the final result. It is a work of art she has creates just for herself. Laury says that you don’t have to be very artistic (although she is); just do it for yourself.

Journaling

I’m such a believer in journaling to remember a trip. Photos will remain, but inevitably it is difficult to remember experiences that were not photographed. I have been frustrated when I cannot remember what day during a trip we visited a particular place, or exactly how a funny story happened. What a shame to waste your time and money on an experience that is later forgotten. If I journal, not only can I recall things when I read them later, but just the process of writing them down better solidifies my memories, without even having to go back and read them.

When we went on our honeymoon to Hawaii years ago, my husband Jeff teased me about journaling each day. Through the years when we would have conversations like, “what was the name of that waterfall?” I’d pull out my journal, and we would have the answer. He says that I made him believe in journaling. However, I actually only journaled half of the honeymoon. I am sad that I cannot remember as much about the second half of our trip—the part I failed to journal.

In addition to preserving and treasuring memories for yourself, a journal is a helpful reference when it comes to organizing photos in an album and adding captions. It is also handy if you help someone plan a trip to the same location later or have some other practical reason to recall the details of your trip.

Journaling each day can be as simple as bullet point highlights, or it can be a full-paragraph memoir. In 2017, my journal became an e-book, To Europe with our Teens and Tween. Some people even journal poetry or haikus. On Rick Steves’ radio show, he often closes with travel haikus sent in by his listeners.

If you dislike putting pen to paper, make video or audio recordings of your daily journal.

Scrapbook/Photo Albums

Organize your vacation photos and keep them easily accessible in an album. You can incorporate your style of creativity that highlights the location, culture or vibe of your trip.

I am dating myself, but a great past-time of mine in the early 2000s was scrapbooking. This morphed into creating albums online through Shutterfly. I still try to preserve and organize digital photos, and have continued to create albums for special trips we have taken through the years.

This has been a worthwhile investment of my time, especially for trips we took when my kids were younger. Now that two are in college and only one is left at home, it’s fun us to look back at how cute they were when we took trips like the one to Disneyworld in 2013.

I have also made albums of trips without the kids that I treasure, like our 20^th anniversary trip to Jamaica. I love these albums, and reflecting on them makes the enjoyment of past vacations last for a lifetime.

Cooking What You Taste

One final way to memorialize a trip is eat the food and drink you fell in love with while traveling, long after you’ve returned.

It is fun to make a special meal that reminds you and your family or friends of a trip you took together. You could go all out on a theme, pull up your pictures, and set the table with souvenirs.

To me the most meaningful cooking experience is making a dish that you discover on a trip and learn to replicate. Have you ever eaten something delicious while traveling that you have never tasted before? When this happens, ask a local how it is made or buy a cookbook so that when you return home, you can recreate the experience by making the dish yourself.

When we were in the Czech Republic, I had this wonderful soup that was like nothing I had tasted before. It had the spiciness of paprika, the sharpness of sour kraut, and was served with a dollop of sour cream. Through internet searches and trial and error, I found a Zelnecka soup recipe that was very close. Now it is one of my favorite winter soups. On the same trip we also had fruit dumplings that we loved, but I have not been able to perfect a copycat recipe. However, it has been fun to try it a few times. I’ll keep trying!

Of course, some people take a cooking class or cook a meal with a local while they are traveling. What a great way to participate in the culture of a place and take home a new skill!

Note: the perfect souvenir or gift from a trip might be a coveted ingredient, spice or wine that is not available at home.

No matter your method, it takes a bit of preparation and effort to preserve your travel memories, but it is well worth it. Memorializing your travel will solidify lifetime memories and will help you get your “money’s worth” out of a trip.

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Adventures in the Smoky Mountains of East Tennessee

For years we have visited east Tennessee to enjoy the Smoky Mountains and see the sights of Gatlinburg, Sevierville and Pigeon Forge. My father-in-law was raised in Tennessee. We have traveled for many summers up to Tennessee to visit relatives on his side of the family and enjoy spending time at Douglas Lake near Sevierville. The Great Smoky Mountain National Park is nearby, and if you love hiking or history, read on. Here are my recommendations for a visit to the park.

The Best Short Hikes Near Gatlinburg, Tennessee in the Smoky Mountain National Park

You’ll want to visit the Great Smoky Mountain National Park’s Sugarland Visitor Center near Gatlinburg. There is a museum inside, a 20 minute video, and plenty of maps and information. From the Visitor Center there is a .7 mile hike to Cataract Falls. We enjoyed this easy hike with a group of extended family, including five kids. It runs along crossing a trickling creek until it reaches the 40-foot-tall falls. We turned around after reaching the falls, but the trail continues. If you drive from the Visitor Center 3.7 miles up the Fighting Creek Gap Road, you reach the Laurel Falls trailhead. This is a popular trail, and like several other trails in the Smokys, there is a parking lot at the trailhead. The hike to Laurel Falls is 2.3 miles round-trip. The falls are 80 feet tall and the trail crosses the creek at the foot of the falls.

From Gatlinburg the one-way Roaring Fork Loop has many hiking trails and points of interest. I have visited three of the falls accessible from hikes along the loop: Rainbow Falls, Grotto Falls and Baskins Creek Falls. The easiest hike of the three is to Grotto Falls, but the falls may be the most impressive. The trail is 2.6 miles round trip if you turn around at the falls. When you near the falls, the hike takes you along the creek with a beautiful, dramatic view of the falls ahead. The boulders and the blooming Rhododendron in the summer makes the approach to the falls a sublime landscape. The trail actually goes under the falls, if you care to walk under a waterfall!

Baskins Creek Falls is another beautiful place to visit. On the Roaring Fork Loop, you can either start at the Baskins Creek trailhead, 3 mile round trip, or continue on to the Grapeyard Ridge trailhead. The trails merge before reaching the falls. You hike down to a beautiful 40-foot double waterfall which has been described as one of the most under-rated falls in the Smokys. However, be prepared to hike back up in elevation on the way back.

The trail to Rainbow Falls is 5.4 miles round trip with a 600 foot elevation gain. On this hike you may see old growth trees and more pretty Rhododendron blooming in the summer. There are rock steps built into some portions of the trail that make the trek even more beautiful. The narrow falls flow 80 feet over a wide cliff. It is a beautiful sight to behold!

The hike at Greenbriar is special to our family because it leads to the John Messer cabin and barn. He was my husband’s great-great uncle. In the 1980s when my husband’s family made the hike with his grandad, he would always taste water flowing from the spring house to make sure that it didn’t “taste like bear.” I wouldn’t advise this, however. Since I’ve been in the family, we’ve made this hike several times, even with our children when they were little.

To reach the trail, turn on Greenbriar Road, just north of Gatlinburg off of US321. We usually park at the Greenbrier Picnic Pavilion to begin the hike. After parking, continue to walk up the road until you reach Porter’s Creek Trail The hike to the cabin from the trailhead parking lot is about 3 miles round trip, and passes the old Ownby Cemetery. However, at the time of this post, Greenbrier Road past the Ramsey Cascades Trailhead is closed for repair. Therefore, your hike will be longer until the road repairs are completed.

Seeing the John Messer barn is the highlight of visiting the property. It was built in 1875 by Pinkney Whaley and was later sold to Messer. It is a double-cantilever barn unique to East Tennessee and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The cabin is less historic. Zenith Whaley, who lived and worked in the area in the 1930s, told my father-in-law that the cabin existing there today is actually built from two cabins, one original to the site, and the other moved from a site higher on the mountain and attached to the original cabin. The Smoky Mountain Hiking Club renovated the cabin in the 1930s. Another source states that the hiking club built the current cabin around an original rock fireplace between 1934 and 1936. In fact, the club website has a photo of the cabin being built. Even thought the cabin doesn’t have the historical integrity of the barn, both are interesting to see.

The Ramsey Cascade Trail leads to the beautiful Ramsey Cascade falls. To reach the hike, turn off of Greenbrier Road to Ramsey Prong Road and drive 1.5 miles. The hike is an 8 mile round-trip hike I have not yet accomplished, but it is on my list!

Clingmans Dome

Clingmans Dome features an observation tower atop of a sweeping spiral ramp. It was built in 1959 and has a mid-century modern vibe. The hike from the parking lot to the tower is one-half mile, paved asphalt, but somewhat steep. Clingman’s Dome is the highest point in Tennessee and in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park at 6,643 feet. The view is spectacular!

What to do in the Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge and Sevierville area

Gatlinburg

Gatlinburg is the Switzerland of the Smokies. It is a touristy town with a Hillbilly/Swiss vibe. If you are there with kids, there is so much for families to see and do. We’ve shopped, eaten, visited the Amazing Mirror Maze, attended a hypnotist show, and we have taken the Ober Gatlinburg tramway to the top of the hill over Gatlinburg. Within the last few years, Anakeesta has been added to the collection list of things to do in Gatlinburg. The only disadvantage to visiting Gatlinburg is the traffic!

Pigeon Forge

Pigeon Forge lies between Sevierville and Gatlinburg and has more options for family entertainments such as dinner show theaters, escape rooms, small amusement parks, go-cart tracks, shopping and restaurants. One of the top attractions at Pigeon Forge is the Titanic Museum, and my kids have particularly enjoyed the Wonder Works indoor amusement park, The Track, and the Smoky Mountain Smoky Mountain Alpine Coaster.

Dollywood

You may know that the most famous resident of Sevierville is Dolly Parton, and who doesn’t LOVE Dolly! She owns Dollywood theme park and Dollywood’s Splash Country. We’ve only visited Dollywood but would definitely recommend it for families with kids of all ages. I personally love fast, metal roller coasters, and one of my favorites is Wild Eagle. Your feet dangle as you smoothly soar over the park. In fact, there are about seven very fast thrill rides, but also more than twenty additional rides for those who are more timid. Beyond the rides, we enjoyed watching a theater performance, glass blowing and touring Dolly’s museum. We enjoyed burgers at Red’s Drive In and snacked on some to-die-for cinnamon rolls and cookies at the Spotlight Bakery. The food is better than what you would expect to find at a theme park. The grounds are clean and beautiful, with flowers growing at every turn. The park gives a quaint nod to down home southern country culture, while providing the park goer with plenty of fun things to do!

Ziplines & Rafting

Now that the kids are older, we have incorporated outdoor adventure activities into our summer plans. We rafted the Pigeon River through Outdoor Rafting Adventures. They are located north of Sevierville just off of I-40. They were very professional and made the afternoon safe and fun! There are several other outfitters that run this part of the river from the Walters hydroelectric power plant on the Tennessee/North Carolina border downstream about four miles. On days the plant schedules water release, rafters can take advantage of Class II rapids. Our rafting trip took about 2 hours, and it was definitely worth it!

We ziplined the Smokys at Climbworks in July 2020, and it was awesome! Once the guides secure your harnesses and helmets, the muddy ride to the top of the mountain in an ATV is as almost as fun as ziplining. We opted for the Mountaintop Zipline Tour which includes five side-by-side zipline runs and four sky bridges. From the platforms you can see from the Greenbrier Ridge all of the way to Gatlinburg. Once you’ve enjoyed the view, you can enjoy the adrenaline rush of each zipline!

The Smoky Mountains of East Tennessee are the perfect place to enjoy natural beauty, adventure and family fun!

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Gatlinburg Pigeon Forge Sevierville Smoky Mountain National Park

Five Things to Love About Telluride, Colorado in the Winter

Several years ago my parents bought a cabin in southwest Colorado. Since then, I have visited the Telluride area many times with our family and friends, and every time I return, I love it more! Here are some of the reasons I love Telluride in the winter.

#1 Telluride Ski Resort

Telluride is the nicest, most beautiful, and posh ski resort I have visited. The facilities are well maintained, and guests are pampered. There are even tissue boxes at the top of some lifts. My favorite ski run in the world is See Forever at the top of Gold Hill Express Lift. It takes you along the spine of the mountain where you have a 360 degree view of the open valley stretching west, the mountains on the north side of the Telluride box canyon, and the mountains on the other side of Revelation Bowl that are so close you could reach out and touch them. It is a top of the world experience! The run may look intimidating, but it is well within the abilities of an intermediate skier. After following the ridge, Lower See Forever turns downhill and is a heavenly wide blue with spectacular views. It is what skiing should always be. Other runs that are family favorites are from the top of Holly Cow lift, including Double Cabin, Bridges (where you ski over and under several bridges) and the Enchanted Forest. My kids love going through the Enchanted Forest and catching air on small jumps and bumps.

#2 Mountain Village

Mountain Village is the town located at the base of Telluride Ski Resort. It is a beautifully built ski village with restaurants, hotels, and shopping. Heritage Plaza is at the heart of Mountain Village where we rent skis, explore winter apparel shops, or grab a hot coffee or crepe to enjoy as we sit outside or stroll. My teens love the Mountain Village Ice Rink which is located in the adjacent Reflection Plaza. If our teens prefer to skate after skiing and eat later, while the adults prefer to warm-up and sample the après-ski specials, it’s all good!

A free public gondola runs from Mountain Village’s Market Plaza to Heritage Plaza at the base of the ski lifts, then up the mountain to San Sophia Station, and finally, down the mountain into the town of Telluride.

The parking garage for the ski resort is conveniently located adjacent to The Village Market grocery store. It’s a great place to pick up what you need. If we are skiing, we park at Mountain Village, but often take the gondola to Telluride and back for a meal or sightseeing. The gondola runs until midnight.

#3 Fantastic Restaurants

Telluride Ski Resort has what I consider to be destination restaurants on the slopes.

Bon Vivant serves French bistro fare on a large outdoor veranda with a view.

Alpino Vino is the highest fine dining restaurant in North America, at 11,966 feet. It serves charcuterie boards, gourmet soups and sandwiches and maintains an extensive wine list. A visit to Alpino Vino is like stepping into a rustic Italian villa with a warm fire burning inside where a glass of wine and gourmet comfort food await to warm you up in the most indulgent way!

There is also the more casual Gorrono Ranch restaurant, where the saloon occupies a historic ranch cabin with a wood burning stove.

The granddaddy of high altitude fine dining is Allred’s, accessible at San Sophia Station, the gondola’s half-way point between Mountain Village and the town of Telluride. Reservations are recommended considering that Allred’s is very popular and is also a venue for private events. The menu has fine dining American fare such as Lobster Bisque and Colorado Rack of Lamb, and the décor of large hewn beams and antler chandeliers tells you that you are in a spectacular location in the Rocky Mountains. However, the view is what is most unforgettable. From the wide picture windows as the sun sets you see the colors change in the box canyon below, until all is dark but the twinkling town of Telluride. If you cannot get a reservation in the restaurant, you might be able to stop by the bar for a cocktail and an appetizer to soak in that same spectacular setting.

In the town of Telluride, one of our family favorites is Brown Dog Pizza. According to our kids, a trip to Telluride must include Brown Dog! Another great restaurant in Telluride is Cosmo, right across from the lift and known for its happy hour and sushi, in addition to delicious entrees.

#4 Telluride

The town of Telluride has so much to offer. It is an historic mining town that sits in a box canyon and is accessible by Highway 145 from the west or the gondola from Mountain Village. The main street through town, Colorado Ave., has an assortment of shopping and restaurants, but some great places sit tucked away on the side streets as well. We like to explore and hit some of our favorite shops such as Telluride Trappings & Toggery, Overland, Timberline Ace Hardware, and even the Telluride Thrift Shop. After an afternoon of walking around town, it is sometimes necessary to stop by the Telluride Truffle for a chocolate or grab a hot coffee at The Cowboy Coffee.

It you travel to the east end of town you can see the frozen Bridal Veil Falls. They are at the closed end of the box canyon.

If you want to learn about the mining history of the town, a visit to the Telluride Historical Museum is well worth your time. It is a nicely procured museum in the old hospital building up Fir Street on the north side of town. From December to April it is open 11:00 to 5:00, but due to Covid-19, appointments are by reservation.

#5 Snowmobiles, Sleighs and Sleds

Think of this category as multiple outdoor activities, other than skiing and snowboarding. There are many wilderness areas that are not accessible during the winter, but snowmobile tours and sleigh rides provide the perfect opportunity to get out and explore off the beaten path.

We loved the Alta Ghost Town Tour through Telluride Outfitters in 2015. This beautiful trip led us to through the snowy forest to the ruins of the mining camp at Alta. I love history and old buildings, and so the trip was worth it just to see the ruins. But we also had time to race around on a snowy hill hot rodding the snowmobiles. I think that was our favorite part of the trip. I’d recommend this tour! Interestingly, the ruins of Alta are only about one half-mile south of the ski area. Additional tours are available.

Another local snowmobile outfitter is Telluride Outside at Fall Creek, 30 minutes from Telluride.

Several years ago, we went on a family sleigh ride with Roudy the cowboy. Telluride Horseback Adventures is located several minutes west of Telluride and provides rides an entertaining ranch sleigh ride complete with blankets and hot chocolate at the end of the ride. My kids fondly remember their ride with Roudy!

There are other sleigh ride outfitters we have not had the chance to experience. Telluride Wranglers provides sleigh rides and dinner sleigh rides.

Dinner sleigh rides are also available through Telluride Sleighs and Wagons. We have not enjoyed their experience, but you can read more about it here.

If you want to have a simple (and economical) day in the snow with your family, take your sleds or disks to the nearest hill and have some fun. Don’t have any equipment? Try Ace Hardware in Telluride. If you kindly ask a local, they just might direct you to a great sledding spot.

This post provides general information, but for specific information related to Covid-19, please visit the websites referenced in this post.

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Winter Trip to Yellowstone

It takes a bit of planning to make a successful trip to Yellowstone National Park during winter since most roads in the park are closed. Shawna and Nick Atkinson went to Yellowstone this winter. They chose to go to Yellowstone because they had been before in the summertime but wanted to go back for a completely different type of visit.

From November through April only Highway 212, from Cooke City to Gardiner, is open to automobiles. Several other roads are open to snowmobiles or snowcoaches by guided tour. The National Park Service has a page dedicated to park roads with information about their seasonal access. There is also a page listing authorized snowmobile and snowcoach tour companies.

When visiting the park in winter, many outfitters give clients the choice of seeing the park by snowmobile or snowcoach. Nick and Shawna adventurously chose to book snowmobile tours through Yellowstone Fun. The chose the all-inclusive “Ultimate Package”: a motel stay at Three Bear Lodge in the town of West Yellowstone, breakfast, lunch, one dinner, and an Imax movie. On the first day of their trip, they flew to Bozeman, Montana and rented a car to reach West Yellowstone. They had three full days of snowmobiling before flying home.

Day 1

On the first day Shawna and Nick snowmobiled without a guided tour. They drove on groomed trails in Idaho, just west of the national park. They snowmobiled all day, armed with a map, exploring the Mt. Two Top area. Several miles south of Mt. Two Top is the beautiful Big Springs, where they enjoyed seeing ducks paddling on the steamy blue water. For lunch they went to Meadow Creek Lodge. It is a burger joint open all year long, but accessible only by snow machine in the winter. Shawna said that she had one of the best burgers she had ever eaten. It was magical for them to find this quaint little cabin in the woods and warm up with a burger followed by hot cocoa. In fact, the day Shawna and Nick were there it was negative 20 degrees. However, their outfitter provided full body suits and helmets, which really helped to keep them warm on the trails.

Day 2

Old Faithful Tour (70 mile round-trip)

The first stop of the day was at Firehole Canyon. Along the way Shawna and Nick saw a snowshoe hare and enjoyed hearing information from their knowledgeable guide. Next, they went to Biscuit Basin, which is a geothermal area on the Firehole River. There among many geysers and pools, they saw the eruption of Jewel Geyser. They also came across a herd of buffalo. The guide gave strict instructions about what to do if the buffalo came up to the road, or if the snowmobiles had to pass through the herd. Unfortunately for Shawna, the herd stayed out of the way at a safe distance, even though Shawna would have liked the excitement of having them come closer. The guide timed stops so that they would reach Old Faithful at just the right time for its famously reliable eruption. After seeing the eruption of Old Faithful, they had lunch at the Geyser Grill and visited the gift shop. These amenities are open during the winter season. On the way back they stopped at the colorful Fountain Paint Pots, an area with geothermal mud pots, springs and geysers. It was rather exciting that the guide was able to point out a new geothermal area that had just opened up the week before, likely from a buffalo hoof that opened up the ground. They also stopped at Beryl Spring, one of several steaming blue green pools.

Day 3

Grand Canyon Tour (120 mile round-trip)

On this day Nick and Shawna visited Gibbon Falls, the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone River from Uncle Tom’s viewpoint, and then went to view the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River, which was the highlight of the day. Seeing the Lower Falls is an iconic Yellowstone experience. The falls are 308 feet tall, the highest falls in the park. The falls look totally different in the winter snow than they do in the summer. The tour included a sandwich lunch in a lodge open during winter for the snow machine tours.

Cool things Nick and Shawna saw that made the trip absolutely worth it:

♦ a large coyote foraging in the snow

♦ the buffalo herd

♦ a snowshoe hare

♦ icy waterfalls

♦ many hot geysers melting through holes in the snow

Tips:

♦ There are quite a few outfitters available, and according to Shawna, many of the area guides work through several different outfitters.

♦ You can book snow machine tours from several different locations around the park, including Jackson Hole or West Yellowstone. See the list of authorized tour agencies here.

♦ This type of trip is ideal for social distancing during a pandemic. When indoors, masks are required, but most activities are outdoors and distanced from others. Each group tour consists of about ten snowmobiles with couples on most of the machines.

♦ The National Park Service has a page dedicated to visiting Yellowstone in winter that lists opening dates and hours for park facilities.

When asked what was the most memorable experience of the trip, Shawna said that it was in the national park when they drove up to a completely flat plain of snow spread out before them, and pockets of geothermal activity were releasing vents of steam all around. This was one of the most magical moments for Shawna. She said, “It looked other-worldly.”

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Fountain Paint Pots Lower Falls Old Faithful Upper Falls West Yellowstone winter travel Yellowstone

Thailand and Cambodia Highlights

One year ago I had just returned from a trip to Thailand and Cambodia with a group from my church. While we were there, we were able to visit a preschool supported by Christians in Thailand and also help teach English classes at a senior citizen’s center and school. In addition to those activities, we saw some amazing things. Our journey started in Bangkok, and ended in Phnom Penh Cambodia. This post details some of the most noteworthy places we visited.

The Royal Palace, Bangkok, Thailand

The Grand Palace complex consists of the former royal residence and throne halls of the Thai royal family, government buildings and temples. The buildings have ornate detail and craftsmanship at a level that rivals Versailles. King Rama I began construction of the palace in 1782 after the old capital at Ayutthaya had been destroyed by the Burmese. The palace complex covers an area of over 53 acres within its walls. The most impactful thing was seeing the variety and beauty of Thai architecture and gaining a better understanding of a culture that is so foreign to my own.

You enter through the elephant-sized Viseschaisri Gate and walk with the crowd toward the ticket booth. At the beginning of the tour you walk down an alley towards a courtyard where you see two imposing demon statues guarding the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Look to the left, and you cannot miss the shiny golden stupa called Phra Siratana Chedi. It was erected in 1855 by King Rama IV, and the gold tiles were added later by Rama V. The golden chedi is so striking, but you see all of these other beautiful buildings with all different styles of architecture and colors. The Buddhist Library has columns all around and mother-of-pearl inlaid doors and is Javanese in style. The Royal Pantheon is built in the Thai-Khmer style. Don’t miss the model of Angor Wat, which is especially interesting to see if you cannot actually visit Angor Wat. The covered gallery which surrounds the buildings in the temple complex has beautiful paintings all along its wall that tell the epic story of Ramakien, the Thai version of the Indian Ramayana story. The largest building in the temple complex area is the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It houses the 15^th century solid jade Buddha image that sits high on a gilded throne. Visitors can enter the ornate room, but must remove shoes. We also walked in front of the royal residence building, Chakri Maha Prasat Hall, but did not have time to go inside. It was built in 1877 in Italianate style but has a Thai style roof. To truly appreciate what you are seeing, I’d recommend renting an audio guide or hiring a guide to give you a tour. We had a local in our group that could explain the significance and meanings of the stupas and the rooflines with the birds at the top chasing the dragon down, symbolizing yin and yang.

It is a good idea check the Royal Grand Palace website for practical information prior to your visit. You will want to modestly cover your arms and shoulders. Men must wear long pants, and women will need to wear skirts below the knee. Closed toed shoes that slip on and off are advised, but no flip flops. The complex is open 8:30am to 3:30pm seven days a week and entry costs 500 baht. Be aware that you must go through security, and do not take photos in security line areas or of military personnel.

Wat Pho - Temple of the Reclining Buddha

Once we exited the temple complex, we went around the block to Wat Pho—Temple of the Reclining Buddha, which sits directly south of the palace. The temple is within a working wat complex that also houses a Thai massage school. To see the famous statue, you must take your shoes off to enter the temple building where he lies. You walk counter clockwise around the large reclining Buddha statue to get a good look. He is covered in gold leaf and lies 46 meters long and 15 meters tall, taking up the length on the building in which he reclines. If his head lay at the goal post of a football field, his feet would almost touch the 50 yard line. Along the wall behind the Buddha there are bronze buckets in which pilgrims can drop coins in order to make “merit” or good luck. One can purchase a handful of coins that are worth fractions of a penny each in order to spread out the coins among the buckets. As a Christian, I did not do this, but as I walked along to observe, the coins clinking into the buckets filled the room with a pretty ringing sound.

Water Taxi to Asiatique on the Chao Praya River

We took the river taxi from Sathorn Pier to the Asiatique riverfront market. Riding in a boat on the Chao Praya River is tumultuous fun. The turbulent river stays brown and busy from hundreds of boats that travel up and down at any given time. However, one of the best ways to see Bangkok is from the river. You see shanties, high rise luxury hotels and historic wats all in one scenic view. We rode to the market in the afternoon, but when we rode back from the market at night, we saw the beautiful lights of Bangkok from the water. The river shuttle is free and boats run every 15 minutes between 4pm and 11pm.

The Asiatique riverfront market is a somewhat touristy open air mall with restaurants, shopping and entertainment. It was built in an old warehouse district. It has hundreds of different restaurants, shops and food kiosks. There is even a Ferris wheel at one end and a nice boardwalk along the river. The restaurants are a bit more tourist oriented than what you will find in other places, but you can still find good Thai food. There are also multiple chain restaurants and food kiosks such as DQ. The Texans in our group thought it was funny to see a DQ, apparently they are not just a Texas thing! In fact, there are other chains you see in Thailand even more often than you see in the United States—KFC and 7-11—they are everywhere!

Phang Nga Bay

The most incredible natural beauty we saw was at Phang Nga Bay, just north of the island of Phuket. This is an area that has picture postcard limestone mountains that poke jaggedly out of the ocean. It is an other-worldly look that has been used as a backdrop in movies such as James Bond movies. We saw this area from the Samet Nangshe Viewpoint on the mainland. At the end of a windy rural road you park and pay to ride up a windy steep road to the viewpoint where there is a restaurant and hotel. It was a great place to go just to ride up and sit and sip Thai Tea for a while and soak up the view. There are actually a few restaurants and accommodation popping up near the viewpoint, and I’m afraid that it will soon become very commercialized. I was with our group and had limited time, but a better way to see Phang Nga bay would be by boat tour. However, I am thankful to have seen it at all! It is one of the most strikingly beautiful places on earth.

Ko Yao Noi Island, Thailand

Two islands lie just to the east of Phuket: Ko Yao Yai and Ko Yao Noi. We visited Ko Yao Noi, the northernmost of the two islands, which is very untouristed and lies in the south end of Phang Nga Bay. The population is over 90% Muslim, many of whom are rice farmers or fishermen. It appears to be a very safe and sleepy little island. We took a boat from the Bang Rong pier on Phuket to the Manoh Pier on Ko Yao Noi. There are several restaurants, coffee shops and a few accommodations on the island. Further around the island at the Tha Khao Pier are a couple of gift shops, one where they make Batik by hand and another across the street that is a clothing boutique. The island has beautiful beaches with views of more limestone pinnacles that rise out of the sea.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

If visiting Phnom Penh, there are a few highlights you should see while you are there. The riverfront area has the National Museum of Cambodia, the Royal Palace, and pretty parks and public squares. We didn’t have time to tour through the museum or the palace, but we did enjoy walking around the area and walking down the wide paved riverside promenade. The riverside path runs north from the Chaktomuk Conference Center, an example of Khmer modern architecture. The promenade runs along the river adjacent to the Royal Palace and even had a market set up along the river the day we were there. The area really seems to be the heart and soul of Phnom Pehn where families and friends congregate on the weekends to stroll and hang out.

It is important to understand what happened in Cambodia only a generation ago. You won’t have a complete picture of Phnom Penh if you don’t visit either the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum or the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center on the south edge of town. We visited the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum. This museum complex was a high school before the Khmer Rouge took power in 1975. When they moved in it became a detention center where over 18,000 people were tortured and killed. It is a very somber place, but essential to visit in order to understand how the Khmer Rouge came to power and how its legacy impacts the Cambodian people even today. The museum has an audio tour in several languages, including English, that I’d highly recommend. You will want to reserve at least two hours to tour the museum.

It would be fun to visit a market while in Phnom Penh, and there are several: the Night Market near the river, the large indoor Central Market, and the Russian Market, which we visited. It is so named because Russian expats lived nearby and shopped there in the 1980s. The Russian Market has clothing and “dry goods” but also a food and produce area as well. We actually stayed near the Russian Market and there are many international restaurants and boutique hotels in the area. We enjoyed our stay at the Double Leaf Boutique Hotel, and nearby restaurant choices were Indian, Mexican, Italian and American. We even ate at Brooklyn Pizza, which was owned by an Aussie.

Tips:

If this is your first trip to Southeast Asia, hire a guide or go with a group so that language is not such a barrier. It is certainly fine to strike out on your own, but English is not widely spoken.

In the cities, you will need to watch where you walk, as the traffic is a bit crazy.

Drink bottled water.

Also, if your travel to do volunteer work, do research ahead of time in order to help, not harm.

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Bangkok Phang Nga Phnom Penh Royal Palace Bangkok southeast Asia

1. Relax on the Beaches

2. Lefkes Village

3. Shopping in Parikia

4. Panagia Ekatontapiliani and the Paros Archeological Museum

5. Naoussa night life

1. Visit the beautiful beaches

2. Wander through the town of Pollonia and eat a good meal

3. Visit early Christian catacombs and a Roman theater

4. Walk to the castle at the top of the Plaka for great views

5. Take a boat tour to Kleftiko bay

1. Take in the views of the caldera at sunset

2. Ancient Thera

3. Akrotiri and the Archeological Museum at Fira

4. Walk through Oia

5. Explore the southern beaches

Red Beach

Perissa Beach or Kamari Beach

Barcelona

Madrid

Granada

Ronda

Seville

Travel Sketches

Journaling

Scrapbook/Photo Albums

Cooking What You Taste

The Best Short Hikes Near Gatlinburg, Tennessee in the Smoky Mountain National Park

Clingmans Dome

What to do in the Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge and Sevierville area

Gatlinburg

Pigeon Forge

Dollywood

Ziplines & Rafting

#1 Telluride Ski Resort

#2 Mountain Village

#3 Fantastic Restaurants

#4 Telluride

#5 Snowmobiles, Sleighs and Sleds

Day 1

Day 2

Old Faithful Tour (70 mile round-trip)

Day 3

Grand Canyon Tour (120 mile round-trip)

Cool things Nick and Shawna saw that made the trip absolutely worth it:

Tips:

The Royal Palace, Bangkok, Thailand

Wat Pho - Temple of the Reclining Buddha

Water Taxi to Asiatique on the Chao Praya River

Phang Nga Bay

Ko Yao Noi Island, Thailand

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

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